The basis for FR’s steam locomotive L5 for the SJ is a build kit, it is further a kit reliant on using one of Marklin’s class 74’s for the frame and drive mechanism. What is included in the kit are all parts to for building the locomotive body and tender thus installed on a Marklin class 74 chassis.

I started this project a while ago, but it and this blog went fishing due in part to the upsets in 2020 we all shared. I include this post as the finished follow-up to my earlier post about this kit. The “Do’s and Don’ts” are important for other build kits of this nature, I hope to track some of the key areas which may in kind translate from this rather obscure kit to other kits likewise designed: cast metal parts, nickel silver parts, cast plastic parts and wiring modifications. Hope this helps my friends in Z.

Step 1 (purchase): the kit arrives with parts and instructions in a hard plastic shell, it costs about $100, maybe more since it is out of production as most FR items quickly gain that status. Building the kit requires bending metal parts, soldering metal parts, gluing, painting and wiring. In all the project took a day which spilled over to another thus it took me approximately 12 hours. Although the instructions help they do not substitute for one’s own practical evaluation of what needs to be done.

Step 2 (painful): choosing the Marklin class 74 loco to sacrifice. The prototype L5 had black wheels thus there are just two Marklin’s which can be used without painting the wheel sets, I chose 88956 with black wheels.

Step 3: building the loco cabin and tender comprise nickel silver parts which readily solder, but add-on parts including railings and steps are stainless steel which normally require special solder in this case I glued on the stainless steel add-on’s with 5 minute epoxy using care in only applying small drops as needed. Curved cabin roof is another challenge here, I found the thick metal hard to bend around a small dowel, but it eventually ceded with the help of a pliant hard foam surface. “The Bug” bending tool worked great for producing the cap on the cabin as well as the bend on the smoke deflectors.

Step 4: tender frame and wheel sets is one of the more easy procedures this far, it includes bending a nickel silver frame to hold 3 pairs of wheels. Plastic cast truck details are glued onto the frame after using a Dremel tool to smooth the edges. Note: I used 5 minute epoxy sparingly and not near to axle holes for the wheels: don’t want to glue the wheels in place, they need to spin freely (double check). A circuit board with pick-ups secures to a weight inside the tender which is also secured to the frame with a screw. Pick-ups must engage with inner sides of wheels as they will carry electricity to the motor in the loco. Finally wires are soldered to each side of circuit board as they will eventually be soldered to brushes in the loco.

Step 5: assembly of locomotive includes attaching cabin, boiler and smoke deflectors. Note: cast boiler is the main part and cannot be soldered!!!!!! Don’t melt the boiler instead glue on the cabin, smoke deflectors and ladder with 5 minute epoxy.

Step 6: time to paint is best done with airbrush and water soluble airbrush paints, but first gently wash all parts in a dilute solution of blue Dawn and allow to dry. I chose Vallejo #70.950 Black which is a deep black. I would recommend priming first which I did not do thus my paint may not be as strong as it should be primarily on the boiler other parts the paint is strong without primer. Paper loco plaques are cut out and glued to the oval indents on cabin housing while SJ logo is dry transfer. A clear lacquer is finally applied to protect the finish.

Step 7: FR’s kit installed on Marklin chassis is fairly uncomplicated, but this step may rely on the use of a Dremel tool with grinding wheel. First: modifying the chassis for better prototypical appearance: remove cylinders which are clipped onto frame. Note: L5 prototype utilized a jackshaft attached to the side rods thus simplifying the appearance includes removing the cylinders and side rods formerly engaged with cylinders. Note: instructions show a 2 armed jackshaft leading from the center wheel, I opted to not install a jackshaft because I could not grasp how it attached to frame, it also appeared to be problematic for running the loco. With a razor blade carefully cut away leading heat point on front coupler and remove coupler and spring. You will notice much less room within the FR loco shell compared with the former Marklin shell thus some modification of the shell is needed to allow the two to come together. After locating the included brass bushing install it within the Marklin chassis which coincides with the steam dome, it will turn into place leaving 1/8th – 3/16’s of an inch protruding to make contact with screw thru steam dome securing loco shell to chassis.