Category Archives: Weathering

Intro. MBZ Laser-cut kits and Hofsteinach Shed

MBZ laser-cut building kits in Z are comprised of an extensive line-up with particular focus on Bavarian architecture including rural dwellings and railway buildings.

Based on real architectural prototypes the kits offer modelers an historical basis for layout design; they can be used generally for layouts with countryside scenes or inspiration for rigorously suggesting the topography and features of Bavaria and its branch line railways.

Included in this post is the Locomotive Shed Hofsteinach (MBZ Art.#16 057) Z gauge kit comprising two parts: administration building and attached 2 stall locomotive workshop. A late photograph I found for the prototype appears to show the building used late in life as a storage facility, evidence suggests it was not used with a turntable although a very simple one may have been employed at some point.


An introduction to these kits beyond historical perspective and including build quality leads to comparisons with other manufacturers of today’s laser-cut kits: Archistories and Faller. Each company has its own approach which is translated to each kit’s personality. Archistories kits are Prussian in basis and precision in nature from kit to completed building. Faller is rather more generic architecturally, and their kits sometimes could use a little more finishing, but the buildings are uniquely appointed with interior masking allowing nice details including curtains to be seen in buildings with interior lighting. MBZ kits have a personality uniquely their own, I have built close to 10 thus far, and each presented unique construction demands.

After opening an MBZ kit one will notice the uniform dark brown card-stock for the majority of parts, windows are separate fixtures on white cardboard. The card-stock is rather soft if compared with the card-stock used by Archistories, these parts also have carbon deposits left behind by the laser-cutting process: sometimes heavy. The kits also smell of burnt paper which is okay because it is rather subtle and one gets used to it. Large parts are also usually warped presumably due to the laser process. The downside to these kits are gluing, painting, and lightweight filigree parts such as trusses, but I hope to share my personal approach and help others build these kits satisfactorily because they are good kits.

Gluing: I use Noch 61104 glue because of its quick setting and flexible nature, it dries clear with a little gloss so don’t use it to fill gaps, gaps can be filled with brown tinted wood glue with better results. Before you glue to need to prep the parts to remove carbon deposits, manufacturer suggests sanding sponge or wire brush, but I use a paper towel and brush away the dust. Best use is made of gentle approach here. Note: youTube video posted by Reynaulds shows Thomas Oswald building one of his kits using UHU Hart glue which is an excellent glue but rather messy with strands that seem to pull away applicator after application.

Painting: MBZ kits are raw cardboard, they are not pre-tinted like Archistories and Faller thus painting is required. MBZ has a line of pigment paints which are applied with a sponge which are reasonably priced in kits, but I prefer using Gouache watercolor paints which I will ouline here. The first step is priming the parts before assembly and painting other parts before assembly. I use Gouache for several reasons: building up texture, quick drying, excellent color choices, and can be lightly sanded. Gouache is opaque watercolor which can be diluted with water for more transparency, it also mixes well with other colors. But as with certain other artist media Gouache needs to be protected by a final application of lacquer, I use acrylic lacquer applied with an airbrush. Lacquer comes in matte, semi-gloss and gloss, the choice for each is complicated by the fact that each will impart a different surface appearance but also and more importantly different levels of color saturation thus gloss will impart the colors with much more saturation than semi-gloss or matte. I also use the micro-crystalline wax by Renaissance which gives a waxy/gloss finish appropriate for textured surfaces, I don’t use it often but for those situations it is suitable there are no substitutes. Preparation for paint: first prime the parts thereby sealing the paper. Note: MBZ textured laser-cut parts for some reason resist paint, I found a drier paint (less water) was required, too much water in the paint pooled on top of the parts. I find MBZ kits to border on primitive, I embrace the soft edges of the paper parts and uneven color application therefore I have tended to use brush versus airbrush, it is a technique where I was able to control paint thickness and shading, but a combination of airbrush and brush should yield excellent results. With MBZ kits for me are about embracing buildings with age and years of history, I have found it better to push in the direction of defects than perfection with these kits thereby bringing to the surface years of use.

Very delicate filigree parts such as trusses are difficult to work with in MBZ kits, they are best to be glued to the roof panels before inserting into loco sheds as suggested by the manufacturers’ illustration which also serves as assembly instructions. Note: Instructions in the form of a short text accompanies a large illustration which I have found at times misleading and/or challenging to say the least, it is best practice to lay the parts out and try to understand fit and placement before gluing. Note: reread last note!

For each MBZ build kit I post now and later I will describe trouble spots with the kit in question and technique I used unique to that kit.

Loco Shed Hofsteinach: All in all a very good kit and equally nice building of medium size. Unique to the architecture of this building is scale, it looks much bigger than it really is which is a unique achievement praised in architecture. Construction of this prototype included brick infill siding with numerous windows framed in iron, stucco and shingle administration building. The kit included hinge design for the 4 large wood loco shed doors which involved super gluing a pin (nail) to the edge of each door panel, due to the thickness of the pin and securing the doors to it I chose to forgo working hinges and permanently glued the doors in place. Trusses are very nice in the kit, but they are very lightweight although prototypical in scale they are hard to work with, they should be glued to the roof panels before installing in building as suggested by the instruction’s illustration. Window panels are glued to the outside of the building’s framework and outer panels glued over top which is a little different from the other manufacturers.

I used the dry brush technique and build up color on the brick infill siding finishing with airbrushing a light spray of gray/black.

Door panels on loco shed were first stained with a brown stain followed by a wet brush of gouache with grimy black paint and finished with light airbrushing.

Roof panels were darkened with gray/black using airbrush. Note: manufacturer did not include smokestacks, but I will include those when the building goes to layout.

Adminstration building includes aged shingles and stucco. I came up with a color for the stucco I was happy with and added white charcoal powder for texture, this layer was followed by a slightly darker tone to suggest weathering, age and repairs.

Shingles were darkened with a light spray of gray/black. Foundations stones varied from one side to the next, I colored matched the administration building’s stone color for a uniform look around the building. Note: it is not uncommon for foundation stone color to vary depending on construction time-frame and changes made to original structure over time.

This very solid, designed and proportioned loco shed is a very good building for branch-line service.

Siding: only USA dealer for MBZ is Reynauld’s in Illinois.

Marklin’s New Release Station Kit: 89703

Marklin’s current program features several new laser-cut buildings including this one: Item 89703 – Bausatz Bahnhof Eckartshausen-Ilshofen (Sulzdorf).

Based on the 1867 Bavarian station today disused of its original purpose in Sulzdorf, Germany this kit is very good, it is a handsome medium size station featuring block construction and ample waiting platform.

The kit assembles rather quickly due to few embellishments, but it does not lack the color and character of the original structure.

Signage is offered with several variations printed on a small sheet but cutting them out is rather a difficult task. No partition walls as with Archistories so lighting the building will be unrealistic unless some modification is made. Overall a very good to scale station that is very easy to assemble.

Siding: weathering will add interest to the building including brown and/or black chalk in the tiny nooks and crannies dirt would naturally collect on a 100 year old train station. Light fixture is represented but non functioning, painting the bulb with gold paint will give the impression of light or further modify the building with a working bracket light available on Ebay.

Marklin Insider 81352: “DB Freight Train for Coal Transport”

“Remarkable things come in small packages!” An often used expression with new and veteran Marklin Z enthusiasts, but never as true as with model 81352. Here is a class 80 tank locomotive one of the smallest German steam locomotives used for shunting and general regional freight traffic exquisitely realized as a smooth running Marklin Z gauge locomotive heading 5 cars loaded with coal.

Note: photos only show 4 of the 5 coal cars!

What can be said of this locomotive referred to as “Little Bull” in the Marklin literature is all positive, it features glazed window openings, very detailed running gear with side rods of great complexity, superb weathering, LED headlamps, and brushless motor. And it looks great! Cars too!

Type 0 10 and 0 11 wagons loaded with removable coal inserts complete the Era III set.

Much care and attention to detail went into the production of this latest Insider release that will add a high level of realism to a prototypical mid century layout. Weathering was presumably applied with airbrush, but the level of quality maybe difficult to match even for the more experienced modeler.

*MBZ cardstock building #16058 (weathered) available exclusively in the United States from Reynaulds

As a bonus the train set included an unfinished brass casting of the locomotive shell, it is remarkable to see the unpainted and unfinished casting next to the finished loco which suggests the massive amount of handwork that takes place before these sets reach the collector.

A real stunner of a train set!

Siding: tucked nicely inside the small cockpit of this loco is a new brushless motor described as maintenance free, but other aspects of the loco require the usual maintenance including periodic oiling of wheels (as little as necessary which is not much) and wheel cleaning.

 

Marklin 81371: “Heavy Freight” Train Set (factory weathered)

Marklin’s Era III 81371 train set is still available but in limited supply: 499 sets. The train set features the heavy freight loco class 44 paired with 6 hoppers. Striking in appearance, the set features realistic heavy weathering and detailed running gear. Lot’s of action from greatly improved side rods is what’s going on in Z at Marklin these days: steam locos with grit and character more closely resembling their prototypes than ever before.

Manufactured well before the Second World War and through it until ’49 the BR 44 was a heavy hauler freight locomotive. Its numbers approached 2000, but not all locomotives stayed in Germany, twenty five percent stayed within the railways of PKP, OBB, CSD, SNCF, and DR after the war and today all but two remain operational.

The 81371 locomotive with operating number BR 44 1754 features 10 coupled and powered driving wheels with smoke deflectors. Weathering on the locomotive is tinted red with light but heavy application leaving all inscriptions legible which is a fine trick and difficult to achieve. The prototypical color of the weathering is suggestive of the acidity created by the mixing coal soot and steam on the sides of the iron boilers and plates.

Marklin has been slowly releasing weathered versions of locos and rolling stock after regular versions have debuted. For modelers looking for more and more realism these Marklin weathered items are tops! Surely impossible to weather as well as Marklin has done here certain talented folks out there could attempt the same with airbrushing, but color is as important as technique, and I am glad not to have to attempt it here!

*Archistories Prussian brick loco shed gives accurate scale to this loco thus providing historical context as well.

Six type Ootz hopper cars weathered with sooty black complete the set with lettering Erz IId. No coal loads are included, but the empty cars include weathering throughout their bays. This car type included two partitioned sections each with sloping hoppers for very quick dumping of bulk materials.

Siding: airbrushing results are far easier and trouble free with water based paints likewise water based final coat of clear lacquer should be considered to protect your work.

Siding: 81371 comes packaged in a carton housing cartons for 2 sets of 3 hoppers and 1 for the loco, item numbers printed on the cartons is as follows: hoppers (81371-01 + 81371-02) and loco (81371-03). Boxes are important to collectors and keeping them pristine is important too: open flap boxes with a butter knife to save from denting and dinging. And no butter on that knife!

 

Factory Weathering: Marklin 82267 boxcar

Marklin’s factory weathering doesn’t get any better, and this example is another superb example. Featuring a post on one freight car is worth the effort, single cars can sometimes be overshadowed by the glaring goodness of fancy beautiful train sets and locos in the mini-club program, but individual cars add interest at sidings as they are essential to railroad operations.

Turn this car in the light and depth of detail reveals those qualities such as crisp timber construction, lettering and tiniest bolt heads.

Mated with the early Marklin logo this type GI high capacity boxcar with brakeman’s platform is Era III and weathered to perfection.

Note: The prototype of this Era III boxcar was perhaps loaded with diecast H0 locos and tin-plate rolling stock and other Marklin toys of the 1950’s.

Note: The un-weathered version of the GI boxcar with Era III Marklin lettering was featured as the 2009 Museum Wagen (Item #80020).

Siding: MBZ building kits such as the one featured in this post are available in the United States exclusively from Reynaulds.com. MBZ kits are a bit more primitive and tricky to assemble as compared with Archistories kits which are rigid precise constructions. A natural old weathered look is inescapably linked to MBZ, they are good kits to round out the architecture on a layout or diorama.

 

Marklin 89982: Turntable with accessories

A number of options exist for buying a Marklin Turntable beyond new and used with dealers offering new old dealer stock of the original turntable alongside the current offerings by Marklin. A release from 2014 included the turntable with accessories as item number 89982, this included 2- three stall loco sheds based on the “New Objectivity” architectural movement and a railway administration building.

Marklin has discontinued the 89982, they are now offering the turntable with controller and transformer only as item #89983, the loco shed building kit is also available as an accessory with item #89835. What is currently not available is the build kit for the railway administration building which is a wonderful example of the Bauhaus architectural style of the early 20th century and is fully complemented by the same era roundhouse. The railway administration building was reason enough for me to buy 89982 which is as beautiful in person as the Marklin promotional photos.

The Railway Administration Building features 2 partition walls, numerous windows and flat roof, its measurements: 7 1/2 inches (length) x 1 3/4 inches (depth) x 1 11/16 inches (height).

Building the kit is easy and straightforward with no issues.

Six stall roundhouse features steel framework and brick infill, it is a very attractive building with rather plain doors that do not swing open and closed with the precision of the Archistories Roundhouse ARC-112121 and accessory Stalls ARC-113121. Interior supports are a bit flimsy and easily bend out of shape, but overall a very good kit that I recommend.

The kit can be built as two separate buildings with 3 stalls each or as one 6 stall roundhouse in which case two exterior walls are omitted, I opted for two buildings.

Unlike the Archistories loco sheds which incorporate 2 part window and door framing with snap in place glazing this kit requires gluing glazing to the interior side of the door. To compensate for the plain doors I decided to age them. First I used a light wash of grimy black (water-based) paint on the interior side of the glazing followed by dry brushing grimy black to doors and brick work around doors, I further lightly aged the bricks along the ground level around the perimeter of the buildings. Light and heavier pressure was used to vary the amount of color to the doors and bricks using dry brush with very diluted paint. Doors readily absorb paint so test a small area first.

Siding: original 3 pole motor turntables can be upgraded to 5 pole with part number 211914.

Marklin 89941 Transfer Table: brief notes on history and repair

First introduced to the mini-club line-up in 1977 the 8994 transfer table would remain unchanged in design until 2002 when it was upgraded with a 5 pole motor and the item number was extended by a ‘1’. From 2003 until 2012 the 89941 transfer table was available with a few packaging changes including white versus blue transformer and controller plus a five pole motor. Manufactured throughout its long history in Italy the transfer table is a very well designed and precision accessory for mini-club, it could be used on a layout for modeling steam and diesel, but it could also be accessorized with catenary for electric locos.

I have seen many early and late transfer tables and all were in excellent working condition owing to the excellent design and manufacturing.

The one and only issue with the transfer table 89941 that is easily overcome has to do with delivery specs, three times 89941 was delivered to a local dealer from Walthers and each was afflicted with the same issue: motor housing top plate separation and subsequently gearing detached along with operators’ cabin. No fear, I was able to easily put each back together again. Probably poor packing and shipping from Walthers to Pennsylvania shook things up a bit, but the problem was easily mitigated, and I wanted to share brief notes on the motor housing for new and old transfer table fixes, repairs and restorations.

The motor housing on the transfer table is easily accessed by slipping off the operators’ cabin and then gently working off the top plate of the motor housing which is held in place by clips. Inside the motor housing three sets of gears and the motor. If you need to remove hardened oil simply remove the vertical gear and top gearing to connects with motor and soak in original (blue) Windex, leave motor and second gear in place and with careful use of toothpick, tweezers and very small cleaning cloth remove dirt and hardened oil from the inside of motor housing. Don’t obsess here, normal loco dirt and debris such hair do not afflict this part, careful not to add lint to the housing by cleaning.

To reassemble the motor housing locate mounting hole for vertical gear in base of motor housing (see shiny brass part with hole in base), worm drive end of gear sits in this hole. Note: worm gears align with regular gears only, they do not function together. Large gear is correctly installed on top engaged with worm gear (bushing on each end of top gear that engages with motor allow it to move freely, double check this gear is properly installed before proceeding). Before attaching top plate locate hole with brass bushing, this hole will align with top of vertical gear. Lastly slide on top plate and test.

Underside of top plate with brass bushing, top of vertical gear sits within the bushing.

Everything fits correctly when the motor housing has no gaps.

Note: bridge only moves with power applied when gearing is properly installed, it will not move freely unless the vertical gear is removed from the motor housing.

Don’t be afraid to buy the transfer table used, I have never seen one that can’t be restored with a simple cleaning or realignment of the bridge and those include some late 1970’s examples.

Good luck and happy railroading. Stay tuned for the next post, an exciting loco shed to go with the transfer table has just been released!

Archistories ARC-104171:

Siding: realistic modeling might include weathering of the bridge and attaching corrugated steel in the form of laser cut cardstock to the roof of the operators’ cabin.

The 1935 NIEMAG GLEISBAUKRAN is monumental!

Crane, maintenance of way railcar, or a crazy thing with lots of hooks? All of the above, but what stands out is its sheer size and without a description who knows what it is?!?!

The railcar with the big boom installed over a million window cabin is for track construction, assembled track sections could be offloaded from a flat car, traverse through the car above the cabin and placed on other side for installation.

Winding drum and machines are modeled inside the cabin. I chose to paint the machine in dark brown with weathering along the lower part of cabin as a disused railway vehicle on a siding.

Constructing the model was relatively easy compared with others by Behnke although I found the cabin to be a tight and difficult fit on the chassis. The mistakes I made with this kit was installing the cabin higher on the frame than it should be, but I found the fitting too difficult, it did not readily slide into place. The second mistake was installing the hooks too low in the boom, they should have been attached higher inside the boom frame to realistically allow track to slide through channel above cabin. One day I will receive buffers for this and maybe then correct the hooks, but in the meantime it is a pretty cool contraption!

 

Repainting 8135 coaches for the SJ: Part 3

This is the 3rd and final post on the repainting and lettering of the Marklin Dompfeil train set (8135) for the SJ.

Before (Marklin 8135):

After (SJ coaches using FR decal set):

At the start of this project I had never repainted a train car before or operated an airbrush thus much was learned.

SJ coaches in z scale have been extremely limited, FR released a type litt AB8k 1st and 2nd class in a single release of 30 only, FR 46.299.00 was based on a German built coach that was used on a ferry service. In order to accurately represent this coach FR modified a Marklin coach that was shortened by one window.

photo: FR 46.299.00 (edition: 30 total) – SJ type litt AB8k 1st and 2nd class coach

For those interested in SJ modeling in z there are numerous locos and freight cars by FR, but scant few passenger coaches until FR released a decal set several years ago intended for the Marklin 8135 coaches, these German built coaches for the Dompfeil train set were likewise used on the SJ.

The process of producing a set of 4 coaches started with disassembly of the coaches followed by stripping, in this post the final stages are documented including masking, painting, and lettering.

Identifying the sections to paint include the undercarriage, sides, and roof. The roof is a clip on part, it does not require masking unlike the shells. Painting two colors of the same part requires masking, I decided to start with the undercarriage and vestibules color, I sprayed the entire shells with this color with no masking.

Before applying the brown paint I masked off the vestibules and undercarriage. The masking material is similar to common masking tape, but it is markedly thinner with a slick surface, it also comes in a variety of widths. I chose masking tape of 6mm width manufactured by Tamiya.

After paint is dried the masking tape is removed, for areas not protected by masking retouching maybe required, I chose to paint the buffers with a brush as the final stage of painting, masking these seemed an impossible task and fine brush work produced great results.

The FR decals in the set are applied by rubbing onto the cars, they differ from other decals that are applied with water. The decals provided had alignment marks to make positioning easy, my burnishing tool was an artists’ burnishing bone, but a soft tipped lead pencil should work fine.

After decals are applied a final coat of clear lacquer is sprayed on to protect the finish and decals. And reassembly follows as the last step.

Notes on airbrushing: I purchased an Iwata Neo airbrush with an Iwata braided hose for just over $100. Several airbrush air compressors were available from the store I purchased the airbrush from with prices ranging in the $220-$300 range, I chose to use a Porter Cable pancake compressor I use for air tools. A fitting is available to connect the braided airbrush hose to this type of compressor for a few bucks. The only difference between an air tool compressor and a specialty airbrush compressor is one of noise, the airbrush compressor is very quiet while hearing protection is required with the pancake compressor. PSI (pressure per square inch) is a determined by testing on a piece of paper, I set the compressor gauge to 20 PSI which worked perfectly, others I researched recommend 15-20 PSI. Air brushes require cleaning after painting, cleaners are available or water can be used for acrylic paints. When the spray is clear the nozzle is clean, other parts should be cleaned as well. A cleaner between paint colors is also required.

Notes on paint: the consistency of paint should be the same as skim milk, most paints may require thinning with water to gain this consistency. I used Testors acrylic paints that I mixed to customize the color, they are railroad based colors that did not require any thinning. The clear coat I used is made by Iwata, it was the consistency of white glue and required thinning to spray. Acrylic paints dry quickly and can be layered on layer without skinning as can be the case with enamels or the combination of the two. The very best results will be achieved with 100% acrylic paints. Careful attention should be applied in mixing paints for airbrushing, straining maybe required to avoid clogs and poor paint results. For safety use a mask and gloves.

Notes on applying decals: as with much detail work careful consideration applies to attaching decals, they are transferred from a sheet to the model with burnishing tools. Best results are achieved with a level flat object, I use a specialty artists’ burnishing bone. Pointy tools will not work! Acrylic paints should be allowed to dry overnight to provide a hard surface for decal work. And very delicate handling until final spray coat of lacquer. I used clear lacquer with a satin finish which is consistent with Marklin’s coach finishes.

For close to two years I had the decal set and a second Marklin 8135 for this project, but I was reluctant to start due to lack of expertise. Plus I was apprehensive to strip the paint of mint Marklin coaches: after stripping there was no going back. I discovered that air brushing is easier than I thought producing a superior paint finish. Now I feel the airbrush is as important to the railroader as the soldering iron. Future uses for this new tool include weathering track, cars and locos.

Good luck and have fun!

Siding: FR’s Ra 987 electric locomotive is a compatible loco for this coach set, it is based on the prototype from the mid 1950’s:  FR 46.132.01 was produced in a limited series of 32 total, it is still available from quality-toys-trains on Ebay.

 

New Release Build Kit: Marklin 89807 Freight Depot

Marklin new release of a freight depot in laser cut cardstock is the “Bee’s Knees”! This was a fun kit to put together and aside from taking extra time on window glazing went together surprisingly quick. Marklin labeled this kit as “Maintenance Facility Set-up Part 3”, it includes loco maintenance equipment as a bonus but the building can be used as a stand alone freight depot. Marklin 89805 with loco shed, coal loading crane and bins is considered the first in this series and 89806 is considered the second in the series which includes loco shed with two tracks, water tower, and cast metal power shovel.

Measuring in inches 4 1/2 (length) x 1 15/16 (width) x 1 9/16 (height) the new freight depot kit is loaded with detail with a very pleasing color scheme.

The 2 chimney building allows workers warmth at both ends with the expected heavy draft coming from the 6 large freight doors complemented by iron framework ornamentation. The framework construction typical in parts of Germany sits atop a cut stone foundation with windows around the perimeter.

A crane is permanently installed on the dock and when properly installed swivels. Heavy beams support the docks with sets of wooden steps allowing access from the ground. It is possible to light the building with pre-cut holes for installation and one partition wall to create lighting effects.

Construction tips: kit designed for the modeler with a little experience with laser cut cardstock buildings. This kit features all the challenges you may ever see in laser cut including filigree framework that installs over brick panels. The chimneys are always deserving of care, attention and time because they involve the inner forms for construction followed by 4 side panels that need correct alignment with a chimney cap installed on top. Results are always better with properly installed window glazing which is the first step in all laser building kits with windows. A time consuming exercise relying on cutting precise squares and rectangles out of the provided mylar sheet. Don’t proceed building this kit without the window glazing, they give depth to the building especially when lit from within or side lit. A characteristic of laser cut cardstock buildings are the sometimes flimsy papers used to complement 1:220 scale and intricate detailing, overly thick paper stocks would diminish the overall look of fine detailed z buildings. Gaining experience with these kits will surely reward the z modeler with correctly scaled and interesting architectural models. Weathering is certainly a consideration to add depth and character to a building of this type, the docks would receive heavy wear from dollies and hand trucks representing the dirty paths embedded in the dock’s planks, soot from the chimneys and age patina of steel sheathing on the roof. Air brush and dry brush techniques for both areas of the building.

Accessories in the kit: the building could have been enough for this very successful kit, but as an added bonus loco maintenance equipment was also included: rail bicycle, track scale with building, steam loco tools and stand, oil standpipe, and smokestack.

This kit is highly recommended.

Good luck and have fun!