The 8862 Amtrak F7 is a member of the original line of F7’s produced for mini-club. And it features the “tried and true” 3 pole motor #264440. No need to upgrade original 3 pole locos to 5 pole except for the following reasons: 5 pole motors are quieter and lower idling speeds. Some members of the z community feel 3 pole motors are more durable, but I am not of that thinking. The current cost of the replacement 5 pole motor is on average $50 for the #211903 that replaces #264440. Marklin has made available almost all 5 pole motor replacements for the diesel, steam and electric locos, there are a couple of exceptions including the Zeppelin. I highly recommend upgrading 3 pole rail buses just for the lowered noise, these locos don’t seem to have as much buffering as the rest.
For an easy 5 pole motor upgrade I chose the 8862.
Parts Breakdown:
First: use a pair of synthetic .70mm or thinner guitar picks gently slide each between the shell and chassis either side as illustrated, shell will slide off easily, Marklin depict small screwdrivers used in their literature, but the soft flexible guitar picks risk much less damage to inside of the shell. Photo exaggerates use of the guitar picks, shell slides off with very slight pressure using these.
Second: with a toothpick or very small screwdriver push the axles out of chassis thereby releasing the trucks. Set aside the top gear for cleaning.
Third: unscrew the single black screw in circuit board followed by prying off circuit board, very gently apply just enough pressure the release circuit board from 4 clips that hold it in place.
Fourth: remove lightbulb and set aside, very carefully bend capacitor straight up to allow easy removal of circuit board mounting frame (I use a pair of tweezers as a way of holding wires in place as I gently bend them equally), unscrew circuit board mounting frame from chassis, careful not to lose the three tiny screws. Set aside circuit board mounting frame.
Fifth: with motor and transmission gearing still installed in chassis please take notice of the brass bushings and how they sit perfectly in place in the chassis, they need to be reinstalled in the same way.
Notes: motor only fits one way in chassis and worm drives face ends of loco.
Further notes: before installing new motor apply electricity to confirm it works, also break-in the brushes with slow and fast speeds, forward and reverse.
Follow a reverse course when putting the loco back together with a couple of important observations: use great care bending the new capacitor wires, check the whiskers from the circuit board engage with the capacitor wires, don’t forget the all important black screw attaching circuit board to chassis, a spot of Labelle 108 oil sparingly to all moving gears only except gears from motor those will get enough oil from transmission gearing, lightbulb will slide into clips before screwing in place black screw for circuit board, and lastly cattle catcher if you choose to install slides on post at end of loco after removing coupler at that end: gently prying open the truck will allow access to coupler and spring, I normally leave the spring intact in case I want to reinstall the coupler at a later date.
Hope this information is helpful, and you may consider upgrading other locos with 5 pole motors.