The recent release Marklin 89601 Signal Bridge is an inexpensive but extremely impressive building for Z modelers. One of the more important buildings to include in a layout is a relatively modern signal bridge thereby incorporating multiple possible era’s within a German model railroad. Marklin’s new release class 24 steam locomotive 88031 provides interesting scale to the new building, it represents an extensive redesign of the ’24’ with new coupled tender and improved running gear: side rod action on this locomotive is lively and expressive in a way early versions are not.
A very interesting small build kit with a very reasonable price based on a preserved prototype in Germany, 89601 is not an easy kit to build, it has it’s challenges, but it is none the less a good and recommended kit to try.
For one the building exhibits excellent scale in one particular way: trains running along side her are magnificently modest as they travel along under her wing. The scope of the building includes an attached shed and transecting observation and control room with controls depicted in cut-out illustration.
Such structures are common enough that their omission on a model layout should be reconsidered.
Build Notes: consider attaching all small parts after building the structure, these parts include small window sills and architectural decorative moldings as these may be exposed to excessive handling during completion of the building. Further veering away from printed instructions consider adding steel roll-down sheeting on two windows with attached parts otherwise omit in accord with personal preferences. Presumably the sheeting is covering adjacent windows rapping a corner to allow more wall small within the structure (?).
Another build note: extension over tracks is supported by a modeled steel framework which is a delicate part and inserted into a cardboard base, photos for this post do not show the main structure and supporting structure comprising base for track-over extension cemented to a base therefore they appear crooked or “out-of-sync” with each other, please disregard building will be perfectly lined up after permanent cementing.
Another build note: consider filling gaps between parts with wood glue followed with painting part ends/seams to create a seamless edge-to-edge appearance. *building depicted in this post document the building without any finishing touches.
Archistories “Norbertus” Bridge is packaged with a keystone dated 1945, it is a masonry bridge constructed of cut stone that serves as a small bridge for single track train. Faller’s “Laasan” Bridge is a much earlier bridge and the first cast iron bridge in Europe, the original bridge was destroyed in 1945 giving these two bridges an interesting connection.
The Archistories bridge is suitable for crossing small stream, path or road, it is a sturdy build kit with heavy cardboard frame and structure. The railing provided with this kit is sturdy as well. It is a very easy to build kit for a small railroad.
Faller’s bridge is not only based on a prototype, it is based on a very early bridge erected in Poland at the end of the 18th century. The filigree cast iron spans are dynamic and lively from several vantage points, it is primarily used for small cars and trucks plus foot traffic. The kit was very easy to build, but mine was missing the #3 parts thus missing ‘L’ shaped sections had to be modeled with leftover card-stock.
Marklin factory truck crossing bridge is from the recent release cast metal truck set: 89023.
If it is possible to visit a late 19th century western United States town built by gold perhaps this station in its small dimensions satisfies that goal. Measuring 5 inches in length x 2 1/2 inches in overall width x 2 inches in height the “Goldtree Station” by Archistories is the fictional hub and gatekeeper for the outside world, it greeted new comers with grand dreams of making it rich and goods to keep a decidedly inhospitable landscape habitable.
This year marks the important anniversary of the Transcontinental Railroad: 150 years East and West coasts joined by rails at Promontory Point, Utah. And a good time to consider modeling a western gold rush community in Z starting with this nice building exclusively sold by ZScaleHobo.com. And Marklin’s “Bumble Bee” locomotive and its passenger set from a few years back are a good train set for this station.
A fairly simple to build kit featuring partition walls which aid in realistic lighting effects, filigree parts which add realism to platform supports, and a mix of building materials including terracotta roof tiles and wood construction.
Goldtree station signage is laser cut with an appropriate American style font of the 19th century.
Railroads grew quickly after completion of the Transcontinental Railroad as did towns throughout the United States. Station and depot types changed too thus small stations with attached freight depots largely disappeared in the teens and 20’s, they were replaced by masonry structures supporting a network of hubs as people and goods were transported all over the United States. Towns who’s singular purpose supported the gold rush either grew independent of it or largely ceased to exist.
Note: exclusive worldwide dealer for this item is Zscalehobo.com
Construction notes: the ingenious feature of this Archistories kit are snap-in window frames and glazing, pre-cut glazing snap into place with gentle pressure followed by window frames, filigree timber sections are finally glued in place and permanently seal windows. Open freight doors are possible but interior detailing will need to be designed by the builder. *use glue sparingly and use great patience with light paper parts which cannot be realigned after gluing, plus snap-in window frames are prone to easy breakage, fraying and distortion.
Another important construction note: Part F10 is a delicate filigree part comprising the main entrance framework, after removing this part from the part sheet two more tabs need to be removed from either side of door frame: brackets should be flush to the structure. In my interpretation of this building it was missed thus reflected in the photos. A second important point is to install the 4 brackets (Part H4) for freight room before attaching roof.
Marklin 88035- Denver & Rio Grande Western Railroad 2-6-0 “Mogul” locomotive featuring brass construction (2004-2006)
Hohenberg House designed to be a multi-family dwelling or shop and dwelling with stucco construction and mansard roof further extends the MBZ rural offerings.
Kit was easy to assemble with the exception of the dormers which were challenging to seat in roof panels. Note: imperfections are part of the charm of MBZ kits and wonky dormers are part of that charm.
MBZ’s ‘rural’ structures include houses, barns, farmstead out-buildings and granary. It is an extensive line of rural structures based on German prototypes which in some cases can be adapted to fit an American themed layout. In some cases German prototypical barns moved to the United States with little variation from those found in Germany. The long history of European immigrants settling in the United States have expressed influence in many ways and combinations thus looking for interesting buildings for American layouts could thus be found within MBZ’s line-up.
An older design granary used for storing animal feed or grain is a striking example of a rural German structure used for the same purpose as American grain elevators, but this one based on a late 19th century structure stored bagged grains and feed versus silo storage featuring automatic chute feed. This granary was a centrally located storage facility located near a siding supporting numerous local farms.
Built using MBZ ‘Pigment Starter Set’ (R72217) and Noch Laser-cut glue.
Note: smokestack was not included with kit, I made it using polystyrene tubing. I did not install dormers, I liked how it looks without them.
Two buildings from MBZ’s large farmstead kit 16071 comprising farmhouse and 3 barns including one with an apiary.
MBZ building kits are German inspired architectural forms available in multi-scale kits including an extensive line-up in Z. Building and finishing a kit has unique challenges that are quickly overcome after constructing a kit or two. Included in this post are a few notes I hope are helpful for successful building.
MBZ kits are automatically age old buildings with history time-stamped into their design and fabrication. Giving a model building history through weathering and aging is easy with MBZ, each kit starts out with a baseline moment in time at least 50 years ago. Adding more use and age to the look of a building is up to the modeler: perfect kit buildings for Era I, II, and III.
Cardboard used in MBZ kits vary from other manufacturers, its natural color is gray/brown thus painting is required after the application of a solvent based primer.
Prepping the cardboard requires priming with MBZ Primer R72214 (pre-mixed) or R72211 (unmixed), I recommend the pre-mixed version. Priming is required due to future mold issues as suggested by manufacturer. Flattening parts after priming and before gluing is required: large parts including roof and sides warp heavily after priming, but rolling parts against the warp flattens them easily. Manufacturer suggests painting with pigments applied with sponge. MBZ pigments are water soluble, and they can be mixed together for custom colors. Consistency of paint should not be too wet or dry, it is applied with a wet sponge but avoid caking pigment. Air-brush masking tape should be used to isolate sections to be painted with sponge application. Dry-brush, air-brush and fine brushwork can be followed up later in construction for fine tuning. Pigment paints dry matte, and I recommend a light air-brushing of matte water based lacquer as a final protective coat.
The manufacturer suggests UHU ‘Hart’ glue which is fast setting but I find it messy to work with, I recommend Noch ‘Laser-cut’ glue which is fast setting and quick drying. Note: other fast setting white glues or wood glues should work well, but a fine applicator bottle available at craft stores should be considered. The few parts that are not always included in MBZ kits are ramps and steps which must be built by the modeler. No partition walls are designed in many of these kits thus requiring custom masking for interior lighting. I nice feature of these kits are stone-laid interior floors which can be exposed in a diorama through open doors with perhaps a wagon parked within the barn.
Note: barn buildings illustrated in this post used dry brush technique to highlight and paint stone foundations whereas sponge application of paint was used for uneven authentic weathering of paint. For glazed terracotta tile roofs I apply a light application of Renaissance Wax (micro crystalline acid free wax) which gives a gloss surface without being too glossy or too thick looking plus it is a non-yellowing museum quality wax available at library supply houses and fine art supply shops.
Three painting kits offered by MBZ will get you started, I recommend ‘Pigment Starter Set’ (R72217), it includes numerous pigments, primer (unmixed), and sponge for $55.49, it was more than enough for painting 13 kits. The kit includes a very high quality sponge, but other sponge shapes and sizes are available at art supply shops, they fall within the category of pastel sponges which are tight cellulose sponges which can be used wet or dry, pastel artists use this type of sponge dry only which readily allows mixing of charcoals and pastels.
Note: MBZ kit builds are best treated with a loose approach without worry of precise paint application: using a dirty sponge gives much more depth of color than a clean one between coats of paint.
Siding: Reynauld’s in Illinois is the exclusive USA dealer of MBZ, they have in store examples of finished kits as well as paint and accessories.
MBZ’s rectory is a sizable structure comprised of stucco and shingle roof, it features stalls for wagons.
Roof section arrived heavily warped which is straightened with triangular sections of cardboard found in the kit.
I was after a representation of aged tinted stucco which was achieved by layers of gouache watercolor. Dirt kicked up from the ground was applied with airbrush.
Parts with rough edges made during the laser process were smoothed over with glue and then painted.
Carriage stalls include open beam detailing plus cobble floor which I plan to allow viewing of after building is set on my layout.
Roof coloration involved much experimentation of layering various colors over a primer coat tinted with brown. Rubbing and dry brush supplemented heavier applications of paint. Roof was top coated using an airbrush of a protective finish of gloss varnish which noticeably popped the color. .
Stucco texture was accentuated by wet and dry brush applied to drying paint. Layers of colors were built up slowly and shading was added with a dark lavender color to suggest shadows around moldings.
Interior of building shows the simple and uncomplicated construction which owes to a less than precision kit with imperfect joints, but that could owe to the look of these buildings settling over time and age which is entirely subjective of course.
All and all an interesting kit but one you need to build without worry of perfection.
MBZ loco shed 16 103 features a single pair of doors thus this one bay locomotive shed is for the simple repair and storage of locomotives along a branch-line somewhere in Bavaria. It features timber construction and terracotta tile roof. Very attractive little shed with a workshop.
Foundation is cement outlining a long rectangle.
Here is a good MBZ kit to start with, but it too has it’s challenges namely with paint.
The sides of this building are heavily cut/engraved by laser leaving rather toothy edges in the paper stock, it is highly resistant to paint. Priming the parts as recommended for all kits is helpful, but airbrushing a color over the primer is what I recommend with this kit. If the paper fibers are course in an MBZ kit paint will be difficult with a brush, however smooth fibers such as the roof panels in this kit readily accept paint: persevere!
Building up layers of paint with a brush gives surface depth and depth of color versus superficial uniform paint: nobody wants to be superficial!
Window details with glazing attached are glued between framework side panels and outer detail side panels. Note: after the the initial structure is glued and standing on its own with glue dry and trusses in place but windows still at Home Depot spray paint interior black or graphite black by Krylon.
Doors are hinged in this model, but the solution is not that subtle: 2 small brass cabinet hinges glued in place between layers of card-stock. This is the first time I have encountered this type of hinge solution, initially I thought: UGH!, but after painting them they aren’t too bad; they are far more durable than other solutions and hardly noticeable with the doors open.
Using airbrush I applied a final acrylic varnish coat in matte finish to the sides and a semigloss finish to the foundation. Note: airbrush masking tape comes in a variety of widths, it is well suited to isolating areas to be painted either by brush or airbrush.
The roof is comprised of a chimney and 3 smokestacks made of wood, the kit included 3 printed paper caps for the stacks which I didn’t like and didn’t use. I built up layers of paint loosely mixed together to give a mossy and terracotta color. The protective coat on the roof is micro-crytstalline wax commonly referred to as “Renaissance Wax”, it was applied sparingly with my finger. Note: If using this product it is important to apply as sparingly as possible to avoid a waxy build up. Renaissance wax is a non-acidic/non-yellowing wax available at art supply stores.
Siding: Reynauld’s is the USA dealer for MBZ kits in numerous gauges and MBZ paints.
MBZ laser-cut building kits in Z are comprised of an extensive line-up with particular focus on Bavarian architecture including rural dwellings and railway buildings.
Based on real architectural prototypes the kits offer modelers an historical basis for layout design; they can be used generally for layouts with countryside scenes or inspiration for rigorously suggesting the topography and features of Bavaria and its branch line railways.
Included in this post is the Locomotive Shed Hofsteinach (MBZ Art.#16 057) Z gauge kit comprising two parts: administration building and attached 2 stall locomotive workshop. A late photograph I found for the prototype appears to show the building used late in life as a storage facility, evidence suggests it was not used with a turntable although a very simple one may have been employed at some point.
An introduction to these kits beyond historical perspective and including build quality leads to comparisons with other manufacturers of today’s laser-cut kits: Archistories and Faller. Each company has its own approach which is translated to each kit’s personality. Archistories kits are Prussian in basis and precision in nature from kit to completed building. Faller is rather more generic architecturally, and their kits sometimes could use a little more finishing, but the buildings are uniquely appointed with interior masking allowing nice details including curtains to be seen in buildings with interior lighting. MBZ kits have a personality uniquely their own, I have built close to 10 thus far, and each presented unique construction demands.
After opening an MBZ kit one will notice the uniform dark brown card-stock for the majority of parts, windows are separate fixtures on white cardboard. The card-stock is rather soft if compared with the card-stock used by Archistories, these parts also have carbon deposits left behind by the laser-cutting process: sometimes heavy. The kits also smell of burnt paper which is okay because it is rather subtle and one gets used to it. Large parts are also usually warped presumably due to the laser process. The downside to these kits are gluing, painting, and lightweight filigree parts such as trusses, but I hope to share my personal approach and help others build these kits satisfactorily because they are good kits.
Gluing: I use Noch 61104 glue because of its quick setting and flexible nature, it dries clear with a little gloss so don’t use it to fill gaps, gaps can be filled with brown tinted wood glue with better results. Before you glue to need to prep the parts to remove carbon deposits, manufacturer suggests sanding sponge or wire brush, but I use a paper towel and brush away the dust. Best use is made of gentle approach here. Note: youTube video posted by Reynaulds shows Thomas Oswald building one of his kits using UHU Hart glue which is an excellent glue but rather messy with strands that seem to pull away applicator after application.
Painting: MBZ kits are raw cardboard, they are not pre-tinted like Archistories and Faller thus painting is required. MBZ has a line of pigment paints which are applied with a sponge which are reasonably priced in kits, but I prefer using Gouache watercolor paints which I will ouline here. The first step is priming the parts before assembly and painting other parts before assembly. I use Gouache for several reasons: building up texture, quick drying, excellent color choices, and can be lightly sanded. Gouache is opaque watercolor which can be diluted with water for more transparency, it also mixes well with other colors. But as with certain other artist media Gouache needs to be protected by a final application of lacquer, I use acrylic lacquer applied with an airbrush. Lacquer comes in matte, semi-gloss and gloss, the choice for each is complicated by the fact that each will impart a different surface appearance but also and more importantly different levels of color saturation thus gloss will impart the colors with much more saturation than semi-gloss or matte. I also use the micro-crystalline wax by Renaissance which gives a waxy/gloss finish appropriate for textured surfaces, I don’t use it often but for those situations it is suitable there are no substitutes. Preparation for paint: first prime the parts thereby sealing the paper. Note: MBZ textured laser-cut parts for some reason resist paint, I found a drier paint (less water) was required, too much water in the paint pooled on top of the parts. I find MBZ kits to border on primitive, I embrace the soft edges of the paper parts and uneven color application therefore I have tended to use brush versus airbrush, it is a technique where I was able to control paint thickness and shading, but a combination of airbrush and brush should yield excellent results. With MBZ kits for me are about embracing buildings with age and years of history, I have found it better to push in the direction of defects than perfection with these kits thereby bringing to the surface years of use.
Very delicate filigree parts such as trusses are difficult to work with in MBZ kits, they are best to be glued to the roof panels before inserting into loco sheds as suggested by the manufacturers’ illustration which also serves as assembly instructions. Note: Instructions in the form of a short text accompanies a large illustration which I have found at times misleading and/or challenging to say the least, it is best practice to lay the parts out and try to understand fit and placement before gluing. Note: reread last note!
For each MBZ build kit I post now and later I will describe trouble spots with the kit in question and technique I used unique to that kit.
Loco Shed Hofsteinach: All in all a very good kit and equally nice building of medium size. Unique to the architecture of this building is scale, it looks much bigger than it really is which is a unique achievement praised in architecture. Construction of this prototype included brick infill siding with numerous windows framed in iron, stucco and shingle administration building. The kit included hinge design for the 4 large wood loco shed doors which involved super gluing a pin (nail) to the edge of each door panel, due to the thickness of the pin and securing the doors to it I chose to forgo working hinges and permanently glued the doors in place. Trusses are very nice in the kit, but they are very lightweight although prototypical in scale they are hard to work with, they should be glued to the roof panels before installing in building as suggested by the instruction’s illustration. Window panels are glued to the outside of the building’s framework and outer panels glued over top which is a little different from the other manufacturers.
I used the dry brush technique and build up color on the brick infill siding finishing with airbrushing a light spray of gray/black.
Door panels on loco shed were first stained with a brown stain followed by a wet brush of gouache with grimy black paint and finished with light airbrushing.
Roof panels were darkened with gray/black using airbrush. Note: manufacturer did not include smokestacks, but I will include those when the building goes to layout.
Adminstration building includes aged shingles and stucco. I came up with a color for the stucco I was happy with and added white charcoal powder for texture, this layer was followed by a slightly darker tone to suggest weathering, age and repairs.
Shingles were darkened with a light spray of gray/black. Foundations stones varied from one side to the next, I colored matched the administration building’s stone color for a uniform look around the building. Note: it is not uncommon for foundation stone color to vary depending on construction time-frame and changes made to original structure over time.
This very solid, designed and proportioned loco shed is a very good building for branch-line service.
Siding: only USA dealer for MBZ is Reynauld’s in Illinois.
The 2005 release of the Marklin T 9 tank locomotive painted and lettered for the Royal Wurttemberg State Railroad (K.W.St.E) featured a 5 pole motor and it was the first of its type for this railway produced in the mini-club line-up.
The 88952 produced in 2005 as a “one time series” celebrated “200 Years of the Kingdom of Wurttemberg.”
The Era I locomotive is appropriately coupled with Wurttemberg coaches: 80105, 8700, 8701, and 8739. Marklin’s recent release 5 coach set is also a very good choice: 87009.
Coach 8739 trails the T 9 with destination boards for Boll-Goppingen, its operating number E4 2733 was produced by Marklin from 1989-1998. Eleven years in production does not make this coach particularly rare, but this open corridor coach has been popular with modelers of early trains. Check out the next section detailing the relationship between this coach and locomotive.
Following years of innovation by modelers of Z one such development proved invaluable: marrying coaches with short locomotives. Locomotives of short length and weight have proven to be less than rewarding to operate on the mini-club layouts with turnouts and crossovers with their slight dip in power, short locos are challenged to pass freely through these track features, but one creative minded individual came up with a solution: wiring the axles of a coach to the leads of the locomotive thereby extending the length of the locomotive. In this case the 88952 with 3 powered axles has been extended with 2 additional axles. Wiring the coach involves some soldering and drilling with micro bits, but it is overall a fairly straightforward and easy repair the second time around, the first time should be counted as a learning curve. Adding an LED light panel at the same time is just a little more work. In this example a draw-bar was installed thus permanently coupling the loco and coach together. Performance for this type of locomotive is improved greatly.
