Monthly Archives: February 2018

Marklin 89941 Transfer Table: brief notes on history and repair

First introduced to the mini-club line-up in 1977 the 8994 transfer table would remain unchanged in design until 2002 when it was upgraded with a 5 pole motor and the item number was extended by a ‘1’. From 2003 until 2012 the 89941 transfer table was available with a few packaging changes including white versus blue transformer and controller plus a five pole motor. Manufactured throughout its long history in Italy the transfer table is a very well designed and precision accessory for mini-club, it could be used on a layout for modeling steam and diesel, but it could also be accessorized with catenary for electric locos.

I have seen many early and late transfer tables and all were in excellent working condition owing to the excellent design and manufacturing.

The one and only issue with the transfer table 89941 that is easily overcome has to do with delivery specs, three times 89941 was delivered to a local dealer from Walthers and each was afflicted with the same issue: motor housing top plate separation and subsequently gearing detached along with operators’ cabin. No fear, I was able to easily put each back together again. Probably poor packing and shipping from Walthers to Pennsylvania shook things up a bit, but the problem was easily mitigated, and I wanted to share brief notes on the motor housing for new and old transfer table fixes, repairs and restorations.

The motor housing on the transfer table is easily accessed by slipping off the operators’ cabin and then gently working off the top plate of the motor housing which is held in place by clips. Inside the motor housing three sets of gears and the motor. If you need to remove hardened oil simply remove the vertical gear and top gearing to connects with motor and soak in original (blue) Windex, leave motor and second gear in place and with careful use of toothpick, tweezers and very small cleaning cloth remove dirt and hardened oil from the inside of motor housing. Don’t obsess here, normal loco dirt and debris such hair do not afflict this part, careful not to add lint to the housing by cleaning.

To reassemble the motor housing locate mounting hole for vertical gear in base of motor housing (see shiny brass part with hole in base), worm drive end of gear sits in this hole. Note: worm gears align with regular gears only, they do not function together. Large gear is correctly installed on top engaged with worm gear (bushing on each end of top gear that engages with motor allow it to move freely, double check this gear is properly installed before proceeding). Before attaching top plate locate hole with brass bushing, this hole will align with top of vertical gear. Lastly slide on top plate and test.

Underside of top plate with brass bushing, top of vertical gear sits within the bushing.

Everything fits correctly when the motor housing has no gaps.

Note: bridge only moves with power applied when gearing is properly installed, it will not move freely unless the vertical gear is removed from the motor housing.

Don’t be afraid to buy the transfer table used, I have never seen one that can’t be restored with a simple cleaning or realignment of the bridge and those include some late 1970’s examples.

Good luck and happy railroading. Stay tuned for the next post, an exciting loco shed to go with the transfer table has just been released!

Archistories ARC-104171:

Siding: realistic modeling might include weathering of the bridge and attaching corrugated steel in the form of laser cut cardstock to the roof of the operators’ cabin.

Engineering Perfection: Marklin E 18 in ‘Z’!

I recently purchased a rare variant of the E 18 electric locomotive in Z by Marklin, it arrived as a used working model, but with a fair amount of dirt and hairs strangling the axles. Cleaning it up included taking it apart and removing the dirt and grime under the hood, but it also included removing excess oil that even found its way under the circuit board. No HOS (hardened oil syndrome) to deal with, but over oiling has its issues including attracting dust and damaging the motor, in this case not much damage occurred to the locomotive.

This post is not so much inspired by the normal reporting of mini-club locomotive maintenance instead it is one that was inspired by the brilliant engineering and design of the E 18 for mini-club.

Marklin does not apply the same rules and principles when designing a mini-club loco: same motor and chassis different shell, no Marklin designs each locomotive class from the ground up thereby insuring the prototype is accurate in 1:220 scale and operates as flawlessly as we have all come to expect from mini-club operation!

Marklin 88082: rarest E 18 variant from 2004

The E 18 is an example of one such mini-club locomotive design that incorporates unique engineering and casting that is also meant to be taken apart and repaired when the need arises.

Taken apart this locomotive has a lot of parts that work flawlessly in the assembled locomotive including two gears that sit on posts within the frame and two large gears allowed to float on their axles.

above photo: right- small metal gear sits on post within frame as well as a second one not pictured, 2 additional gears one synthetic with two sets of gearing sit posts that are inserted through frame body

above photo: left- drive wheels that float on their axles pictured left are assembled in slots on the motor end of frame, two drive wheels right use thinner gears that are permanently fixed in the center of axles which are thicker than floating axles.

The design concept is simple: gather electricity from the wheels by way of a circuit board, the turning worm gear (transmission) on the motor engages with gearing that engages all the way down to the wheels thereby making all wheels drive wheels except for the pilot wheels.

Note: plastic mini-club loco shells are removed without damage with super thin synthetic guitar picks, do not use metal screwdrivers famously illustrated in the Marklin instruction manuals boxed with the locomotives.

With the shell off the cast wheel details are carefully pulled off, they are simply held onto the frame with posts!

Circuit board is not held under clips as with other locomotives, and one screw is all that is required to hold it in place.

The motor is screwed to the frame with 2 brackets each installed with two screws. Note: if you are at this point in restoration it is advisable to remove the motor and clean the frame under it. It is also a good idea to test the motor out of the frame, inspecting the brushes is also a good idea at this point.

After cleaning all the gears replace in the frame with the two gears on posts first followed by the large gears (2 gears that are designed to float on their axles are installed on the motor side of the frame, thickness of these axles also match the machining on the frame).

Note: use care to prevent bending of the copper leads on sides of frame.

Final steps: clipping on the wheel detail sections and then shell: Voila!!!!!

Variants of the German E 18 in mini-club:

Marklin class E 18 for DB (88080) Era III:

Marklin class 118 for DB (88081) Era IV:

Marklin class 1018 for OBB (88082) Era IV:

Marklin class E 18 42 for OBB (81441: trainset with coaches) Era III:

Siding: no other Z scale loco is designed to be taken fully apart and easily assembled as mini-club: diesel and electrics are easier than steam and non articulated are easier than articulated.

Siding: all class E 18’s are sold out at the factory, but Walthers still has the 81441 trainset available with beautiful green livery and 4 skirted coaches.