I am not sure when someone came up with the idea for the 1st model train roller stand, but I am sure it was someone who I would have enjoyed meeting. A simple and complex precision instrument, it has quickly become an essential tool.

Several good roller stands for z are on the market, but I am only going to cover the Marklin 89932 which I use, and I would heartily recommend. Not everyone will need a roller stand, it is primarily intended for testing and repair of locomotives, but Marklin mentions in their literature usage for display; it is good looking so I cannot refute this suggestion. Marklin released two roller stands this one and a smaller 4 pair roller #89931 each is delivered in a foam lined cardboard carton with instruction and standard Marklin plugs with two Marklin logos mounted on either side of track section.

An accessory pair of rollers (#89933) can be purchased separately and added to either roller stand. Power is provided by two power terminals at one end, standard Marklin plugs are used as well as the Marklin mini club transformer.

Stainless steel rollers are in pairs, train wheels each sit atop a pair of rollers.

Two pair of rollers per section are adjusted by loosening and sliding. Note: electrical shorts and shocks are eliminated due to the installation of heavy acrylic under each section. The track section is intended for tenders.

Instructions for adding accessory roller pair #89933 is rather simple but care should be taken to put it back together in a specific way as will be outlined:

1. locate end opposite power end
2. gently wiggle off white plastic cap
3. slide white plastic sections out of channels on both sides
4. clear acrylic block sections are installed with the channel sections
5. fine holes are drilled through the top portion of acrylic block sections these go on top during reassembly, and metal electrified rods running length of channel fit these holes. Note: if the metal rods are not installed in the holes in the acrylic blocks the unit cannot be put together. *Do not force parts together risking damage, parts if they are correctly installed will go together easilly.
6. reassemble

*Stay tuned for roller stand in action coupled with the new steam locos with newly designed side rods.

The Marklin 8998 turntable was produced from 1984-2002 featuring 3 pole motor, plastic construction with metal railing details and remote control. The original 3 pole motor can be upgraded to a 5 pole motor part #211914. Repair requires soldering, removal of bridge and disassembly of motor housing. *Special attention should be paid to electrical contacts at each end of bridge as they are delicate and subject to bending, it will not operate correctly if they bend.

The option to upgrade motors is available, but care needs to be taken each step of the way.

Marklin 5 pole motor for swing bridge:

Original 3 pole motor on left next to new 5 pole on right: *Notice capacitor on 3 pole motor is bent forward (usually capacitors are bent in opposite direction in locos).

Step 1: turntable face down *notice plastic cap in center, this is removed to expose center bolt.

Step 2: with center bolt exposed use flat screwdriver to push off spring click that holds bolt together, set aside along with thin brass washer.

Step 3: with a gentle grip of the bridge (careful not to bend or break anything on bridge) push center bolt out and set aside

Step 4: remove bridge from turntable assembly and place face down, notice motor housing identified by small screws holding the compartment together

Step 5: remove 4 screws and set aside compartment door

Step 6: take note of motor and gearing

Step 7: great care should be taken to prevent bending of electric contacts on each end of bridge

Step 8: with soldering iron remove leads to motor

Step 9: remove 3 pole motor, gearing, clean and replace then add a drop Labelle 108 oil to gears and track rollers

Step 10: test motor and break-in brushes with forward and reverse throttle, install new motor, bend capacitor wires as illustrated and solder leads to capacitor

Step 11: capacitor must fit tightly under plastic housing before screwing back together otherwise it might not clear the base of the turntable preventing level smooth turning

Step 12: carefully re-position bridge locating the pointed plastic end of bridge in place before positioning other end. Care should be taken to avoid bending electrical contacts at each end of bridge.

Step 13: replace center bolt, install thin brass washer and spring clip followed by plastic cap.

There is a fine blog on the internet that came way before me, it got me started on the path of troubleshooting and repairing z. This is a short entry because I just want to introduce another blog that has very useful and important information:

http://www.zscale.org

I just wrote an entry about the easy repair and motor upgrade for a diesel F7, but other repairs are not so easy. If general maintenance is all the doctor ordered stay away from tear downs of locos with side rods except if you have nothing to lose due to a major issue, wheels are completely tangled in who knows what in this case the choice is easy but not the repair. I find repairing locos to be very enjoyable, I have repaired every type of z train including complete tear-downs. Taking everything apart and putting back together again is easier than Humpty Dumpty by a long shot, but aligning side rods can be difficult work for the uninitiated. Side rods on locos attach to multiple wheelsets, their function on models is decorative, but if they are poorly aligned they will not move, or if pairs are misaligned directional travel is interrupted such is the case with the Swiss Krokodil: loco might only run well in one direction if the side rods are not synchronous.

Word of caution: get some experience with diesels and electrics before moving into steam engine repair.

Particularly difficult locos to tear down are all versions of the ‘mallet’ locos, followed by Swiss Krokodil, and finally followed by big steam and little steam.

The 8862 Amtrak F7 is a member of the original line of F7’s produced for mini-club. And it features the “tried and true” 3 pole motor #264440. No need to upgrade original 3 pole locos to 5 pole except for the following reasons: 5 pole motors are quieter and lower idling speeds. Some members of the z community feel 3 pole motors are more durable, but I am not of that thinking. The current cost of the replacement 5 pole motor is on average $50 for the #211903 that replaces #264440. Marklin has made available almost all 5 pole motor replacements for the diesel, steam and electric locos, there are a couple of exceptions including the Zeppelin. I highly recommend upgrading 3 pole rail buses just for the lowered noise, these locos don’t seem to have as much buffering as the rest.

For an easy 5 pole motor upgrade I chose the 8862.

Parts Breakdown:

First: use a pair of synthetic .70mm or thinner guitar picks gently slide each between the shell and chassis either side as illustrated, shell will slide off easily, Marklin depict small screwdrivers used in their literature, but the soft flexible guitar picks risk much less damage to inside of the shell. Photo exaggerates use of the guitar picks, shell slides off with very slight pressure using these.

Second: with a toothpick or very small screwdriver push the axles out of chassis thereby releasing the trucks. Set aside the top gear for cleaning.

Third: unscrew the single black screw in circuit board followed by prying off circuit board, very gently apply just enough pressure the release circuit board from 4 clips that hold it in place.

Fourth: remove lightbulb and set aside, very carefully bend capacitor straight up to allow easy removal of circuit board mounting frame (I use a pair of tweezers as a way of holding wires in place as I gently bend them equally), unscrew circuit board mounting frame from chassis, careful not to lose the three tiny screws. Set aside circuit board mounting frame.

Fifth: with motor and transmission gearing still installed in chassis please take notice of the brass bushings and how they sit perfectly in place in the chassis, they need to be reinstalled in the same way.

Notes: motor only fits one way in chassis and worm drives face ends of loco.

Further notes: before installing new motor apply electricity to confirm it works, also break-in the brushes with slow and fast speeds, forward and reverse.

Follow a reverse course when putting the loco back together with a couple of important observations: use great care bending the new capacitor wires, check the whiskers from the circuit board engage with the capacitor wires, don’t forget the all important black screw attaching circuit board to chassis, a spot of Labelle 108 oil sparingly to all moving gears only except gears from motor those will get enough oil from transmission gearing, lightbulb will slide into clips before screwing in place black screw for circuit board, and lastly cattle catcher if you choose to install slides on post at end of loco after removing coupler at that end: gently prying open the truck will allow access to coupler and spring, I normally leave the spring intact in case I want to reinstall the coupler at a later date.

Hope this information is helpful, and you may consider upgrading other locos with 5 pole motors.

I recently completed my collection of VT 11.5’s with the addition of 88733 + 87933. Sets 8873- 88735 are stellar sets that have been continuously modified by Marklin not just in design but function that being electrical function with the couplers that link each car together. Keeping things simple and uncompromising are Marklin Z attributes, one need only look inside one these loco’s to fully appreciate the good functional design, they are easy to take apart and put back together with side rod locos being an exception. Well this is a first, I just received a lightly used 88733 (mint cosmetically) with one end car not working properly, the motor turned over very sporadically thereby becoming a ball and chain to the working end car. I have never encountered a faulty Marklin z motor before so discounting everything else from electrical shorts, mechanical and other electrical misalignments seemed to make sense, it is after all fairly simple to trace the electrical flow from the track to the motor. To my great surprise the problem rested with the motor and a very poor repair to a brush, even with new brushes the motor was rubbish. Not sure of its prior history, but I would not be surprised if the poorly repaired brush had something to do with the motor being fried. If the gears and wheelsets are moving freely, circuit board is not cracked and black screw is present that attaches board to chassis, wheels are clean, and whiskers are properly in contact with motor brushes then the problem is most likely the brushes themselves and maybe(?) the motor.

Side note: If you have congealed oil otherwise referred to as “hardened oil syndrome” (HOS) considered using the synthetic oil Labelle #108 which is a lightweight oil and plastic compatible as your oil of choice.