Category Archives: Marklin Z Repair Notes

Repair Notes: Marklin 88221 OBB BR 1020 Electric Locomotive

Marklin released the exquisite OBB BR 1020 in 1996-1998, this Era IV electric locomotive was delivered with the 3 pole motor 268200. In this post I will go through the step by step process for installing the current 5 pole motor E211906. The new motor also fits all 3 pole German versions of this loco which there are several including the DR 8812, DB 8822, and DB 8824. Featuring an articulated frame this locomotive type has been nicknamed the “German Krokodil” following its likeness to the SBB Be 6/8 with its articulated frame and pronounced design resembling a crocodile. As for the Marklin ‘Z’ versions of this loco each vary only by paint scheme and railway designation. It was only in the past few years that any tooling changes were made with the releases of 88224 and 88226 which feature LED headlamps and hidden catenary screw.

Onward with instructions for installing a new 5 pole motor in this locomotive type, but first does the loco with 3 pole really benefit with the 5 pole upgrade? No necessarily, the original 3 pole motor is a fine and powerful motor powering a loco of some heft, it features metal frame plus metal ends giving the locomotive good weight for pulling a large train. The loco is also so well designed that its original running performance is outstanding even with the 3 pole motor. The 5 pole motor replacement is also expensive with a list price of $109 at Walthers, it is also listed as ‘sold out’ and unavailable, but the one I am installing was recently purchased for $60. Others can probably be had from German dealers. The benefits of the new motor include a much quieter motor and slow idling, but no real increase in pulling power. I would have been happy and content if no 5 pole motor presented itself, in its original delivered condition these are beautiful locos and excellent runners.

If you have a loco of this type with HOS (hardened oil syndrome) please refer to my instructions in the post dedicated to full tear-down and restoration of the 8824. The following instructions are for the quick motor change-out only.

Before you start check to make sure the new motor works and spins in the correct direction. Run motor in both directions for a minute or two to break-in brushes.

Pop off center shell using the thin guitar pick method referred to in other posts, never use a screwdriver as Marklin indicates in their instructions or damage will result to the shell.
Notice circuit board is held tightly onto insulator frame by 4 clips, gently pry circuit board free of clips. Use great care to avoid cracking circuit board!
Circuit board will be loose from the insulator frames at this point, but it is still attached to solder points. Carefully move circuit board out of the way of the screws that secure insulator frames to the main chassis frame. Beware that the wires extending front and back do not damage electric pick-ups for both trucks.
Set aside insulator frames and carefully remove motor, remove any old oil on the frame and install new motor. Apply a small drop of oil to worm drive on each end of new motor.
Notice the difference in appearance between the original 3 pole motor and 5 pole motor: 3 pole capacitor bent backwards/ 5 pole capacitor is bent forward
Special Note: Notice original capacitor is bent backwards hidden under circuit board. The new capacitor is bent in the opposite direction and due to its small size is visible through the opening of the circuit board.
Reassemble and verify motor is aligned and level by running leads to the brushes. If everything spins well, and the motor is quiet the loco shell can be reattached.

Repair Notes: Marklin’s 8829 – SBB Class Ae 6/6 Stadt Basel

If you are lucky enough to find an older Marklin Z loco in ‘new’ condition chances are likely it has HOS (hardened oil syndrome). It is a great day when a collector grade loco released years ago becomes available, but restoring it to running condition is to be expected. The Marklin 8829 electric locomotive has a number of parts and unique properties. Original equipment for the 8829 was the three pole motor 261920 with brushes 8988. The brushes are installed directly mounted to the circuit board and secured by clips, all 3 pole railbuses use the same brushes plus several other locomotives. The 5 pole motor for this loco is the 211901, but finding one could prove quite difficult, Walthers lists it as “sold out” and unavailable. But I don’t think much is gained with the motor upgrade in this case, I just completely cleaned one, and its noise level is quite low with slow idling.

For repair of this style locomotive of which there are several including 8849 and 8850 you will need a little more patience than others due to the increased number of parts under the hood.

Total: 38 chassis and running parts

Oil during assembly very sparingly with a plastic compatible oil for ‘Z’ gauge, I use Labelle 108 which is plastic compatible thin synthetic oil that will not harden.

Trucks of this loco require special care, each incorporates 3 geared wheelsets, 3 gears and 2 pins; most locos use one retaining pin per truck. Steps for assembling the trucks follow these three steps: 1. locate short pins and assemble large gear in truck frame with retaining pin (repeat for 2 large truck gears and 1 short retaining pin) 2. pinch together electrical pick-ups and place geared wheelset for each and 3rd one in middle of truck 3. carefully place coupler and spring in place and attach truck side frame securing it with countersink screw (each truck goes together with a screw on one end after being clipped on the other)

Motor, chassis and circuit board go together similar to all other Marklin z locomotives with one special note: the transmission gearing (there are two) need a little extra pushing into place, the bushings fit more snugly than with other locos, check to make sure all gears move freely with motor before attaching plastic insulator/circuit board frame, do not over tighten this part. Attach circuit board with care to avoid cracking it. At this point the brushes are installed, run a couple of leads to the brushes to double check motor moves freely when powered. Next attach trucks securing them in place with the 2 long retaining pins.

General Maintenance of the Marklin 88712: BR 406 DB AG or ICE III

Marklin has designed locomotives and train sets with unique properties sometimes custom to a particular model. Whether it is the TEE train sets and its many variants or the ICE 1 or 3, couplers and powered units have been rethought and redesigned. The 88712 was produced in 1999-2005, it is based on the Era V ICE III DB prototype. Two variations of the 88712 include version 1 with 3 pole motor (1999) and version 2 with 5 pole motor (2000-2005). This train set could be supplemented with 4 add-on coaches to make-up a prototypical train set: 87711, 87712, 87713, 87714.

The design of this loco includes a unique power unit located in the middle of the train, the BordRestaurant dining car houses the motor and circuit board, but this car does not receive the power from the tracks instead each coach picks up power that is sent to the middle car thereby driving its two geared trucks. Added efficiency is achieved by the heavy weighted chassis of the dining car giving its wheel sets much needed traction. Couplers used in this set are those created for the 88711 Max Liebermann which are characterized as flat plastic couplers faced on both sides with conductive metal. Couplers are held in place on one end of each car with clips accessed from the underside of car. In order to remove this semi-permanent coupler simply release clip.

Maintaining this ICE train set is easy. The pantograph end of the dining car is gently pried upwards thereby releasing the shell. The capacitor wires maybe soldered to the circuit board thus take great care to avoid breaking any wires. No problem with broken wires, but repair will take a little longer as the wires will need soldering. The trucks do not have electrical contacts so they come apart easily and go back together easily. You may opt to tear down to the gears to remove old oil and crud. I bought mine from a collector who never ran theirs and as a result it was caked with hardened oil (HOS!!!!!) throughout the trucks and gears to the transmissions and even motor. Whenever you buy used Marklin Z expect the worse, you may need to replace brushes at the very least, but you might need to roll up your sleeves and remove crud and old oil. Not sure if I am a nerd, but I like tear downs and restorations!

If you own or are planning to buy an ICE III it will not disappoint, this is one of the finest Marklin Z’s for running characteristics and design true to the prototype.

88731 Max Liebermann special repair notes that deserve consideration!!!

The Max Liebermann class 601 special one time series from 1997 is a two locomotive set that deserves a special highlight with regards to any under the hood repair. I just upgraded mine with new 5 pole motors, and it deserves some special considerations before you might consider doing the same. As with others in this series, Marklin continued to make changes and improvements including more durable couplers that allowed less gap between coaches and locos thereby making some parts non interchangeable between the 1st release of this loco type #8873 (DB) and the second release 88731 (DR). Those non interchangeable parts include the circuit boards and couplers all other parts are interchangeable through the series. The first coupler designed for the 8873 was a plastic clip with electrically conductive brass under spring tension, cars and powered end cars were simply pushed together gently until clip engaged with post located inside each car. The 88731 used a new design coupler that was flat with electrically conductive brass surrounding it and more surface area for electric transfer than the 8873. The new coupler necessitated the elimination of the center post in each car end which thereby led to a newly designed circuit board that would accept the newly designed couplers.

Please note before you make the motor upgrade to this set there are two distinguishing remarks I would like to make that might be helpful: 1. one loco coupler is semi-permanent, it needs to be carefully released from the clip that holds it in place. Use gently pressure to wriggle up the opening in the loco shell and with little pressure slide out coupler. *Other coupler will simply slide out at the normal 90 degree angle that is used to couple cars and locos together in this set. 2. Marklin did not have their heads on straight when they assembled my set, they soldered the circuit board whiskers directly to the motor wires. I am not sure if this was widely done with this set, but this is the first I have seen it. In order to change the motor or do a strip down cleaning and re-oiling 4 solder points need to be removed (2 each powered end car). *Do not attempt to remove circuit board without removing the solder points first, motor is held in place under circuit board mounting plates held in place with 7 screws, it is impossible to remove motor and circuit board at the same time. In order to remove solder points heat them up with iron and pull wires away, remove any roughness of solder left on wires by gently heating residual solder with iron, bend wires back in place to make contact with new motor wires. *The down side to this repair are several opportunities to break parts or melt plastic parts with soldering iron. Not all three pole motors need to be replaced and maybe this is one.

Speaking from experience with a couple of 8873 sets, couplers used in this train work great, I have never had one break or malfunction.

“Good night, and good luck.” -Edward R. Murrow

Coreless motors in Z: Should Marklin move to this new technology?

Coreless motors have taken ‘Z’ by storm. The successful use of these new propulsion systems are used in locos designed for them. A few conversions are now available for Marklin F7’s for a price, but successful conversions of these motors in traditional Marklin Z frames will be for another discussion. Locos designed for coreless motors come from the workbench of Harald Freudenreich at FR, Harald has very successfully created beautifully tooled locos using coreless motors for a number of years now. Characteristics of coreless motors are very good propulsion at low speeds and completely quiet with added weight to assist with better movement on the tracks as well as pulling power. Marklin has gotten into the act offering some new locos with coreless motors, but these have not made it to general release yet. A few questions arise concerning Marklin’s foray into this new technology, and if they should incorporate them into Z trains. At the heart of the question is an already very successful history with their 3 pole and now 5 pole motors that have proven themselves for 40 plus years. I like the hum and glow of Marklin mini-club motors, but the design perfection of Marklin mini-club is furthered by the ease with which most can be maintained, that could get lost with this new technology.

I will close with that old adage: “If it isn’t broken why fix it?”

Upgrading 8856 to 5 Pole Motor

Just a few notes and highlights about upgrading the motor for 8856 ‘Krokodil’. The 5 pole motor is currently available from mostly German dealers on Ebay, it is part number E211904. There are a couple of pitfalls and things to be aware of before you decide to make the repair. First is the rather awkward nature of the design of this loco, it uses a very small circuit board which thereby requires six wires to be soldered from it to the articulated frames, being that there is little room under the hood and the wires maybe 30 years old resoldering some maybe required!

Getting started: After the cabin and hoods are removed the circuit board is unscrewed (2 screws) and the pins removed from the wheel frames. BIG NOTE: 2 rubber washers are located between circuit board and motor frame, be careful not to lose these tiny parts after unscrewing circuit board! Motor frame is thus free from the loco and motor can be easily replaced with the new one, but first the new motor needs to be prepped; bend capacitor so that it is level with rest of motor (it is delivered with the capacitor bent upwards), the capacitor will rest under circuit board and above worm drive (this makes sense when you see it). Use great care putting the center frame back in place, the objective is to not break any wires. Don’t forget to put those rubber washers back in place. Wa lah!!!

Enjoy a much quieter “Krok”!!!!

Marklin 5 Pole Motors

Marklin 5 pole motors have been around for awhile, they were introduced in 1999 with the release of the DB class 143 loco #88431. The 88431 release made no mention of this new motor, but it was soon found out and happily too! The 5 pole has been the standard motor for all locos since, but it is important to mention the 3 pole was a record setter and powerhouse. Marklin makes available 5 pole motors for older locos, should the conversion be made? Brushes have become hard to come by for 3 poles which helps to sway the decision for converting to 5 pole, and your loco with the 5 pole will be more responsive at slow idling and quieter. The price of 5 pole motors varies greatly and availability has become less and less; Walthers lists several motor types as ‘sold out.’ Ebay is a good source when your dealer cannot provide them.

The following is a picture guide of five mini-club motors I use:

E211903 is installed in most Marklin Z locos by far (SBB 460’s, American F7’s, VT 11.5’s and more), it features two standard gears at opposite ends of the armature.

E209452 features worm gear both sides, it is used in all railbuses. Note: motor sold without brushes. This is the only Marklin Z 5 pole motor produced in Germany all others are China.

E211914 features gear on one side, it is used for one purpose: replaces 3 pole motor in 8998 turntable. *See my blog on making this repair. Note: 5 pole motor is available for 8994 transfer table.

E211904 features worm drive gearing on both ends, it used in 8856 and 8852 ‘Krokodil’s’.

E211905 features worm drive gearing on both ends, it is used in BR 144’s such as 8825.

Siding 1: The very successful class 143 electric loco was developed in East Germany as class 243. Marklin’s interpretation of the prototype includes the DR version as well as DB versions with LED’s and superb detailing. The current 88435 is one such example of a privately owned class 143 lettered for RBH Logistics GmgH.

Siding 2: Before installing a new 5 pole motor run it in both directions to break-in brushes. A common reason locos don’t run after 5 pole motor installation is likely due to circuit board whiskers not making contact with capacitor.

Marklin 8873: Tales of HOS!?!?!?

I just received the original Marklin TEE VT 11.5 train set 8873 and matching coach set 8793 from a dealer’s old inventory. For a train set that has been stored for almost 20 years and probably on its side I expected HOS (hardened oil syndrome), I wasn’t disappointed! Not only did the trucks not move freely, but the loco shells were cemented onto the chassis. With gentle nudging on each side of the shell I was able to eventually work them free, but the window glazings came too! Typically HOS is evidenced by an opaque tan clay like substance from the oil drying out, but this time it was an all over clear residue that even leaked onto the outer chassis thereby gluing the window glazing tight to it. The motors were even glued to the chassis frame thus began the repair and restoration work that started with soaking all unpainted surfaces in a mild solvent otherwise known to this blog as ‘Original’ Windex (blue) followed by the pain staking process of using no scratch toothpicks to gently loosen the rough crust of old dried up oil. Usually bringing back an old Marklin Z loco is straight forward and easy, but this time was very unusual due in part to too much of the wrong oil used and then long term storage on its side. Patience is expressly stated for the best results and lots of toothpicks. After moving points are cleaned up use new Labelle oil (viscosity for Z only) sparingly and enjoy the fruits of your labors. Window glazing was reattached using 5 minute epoxy. *Use only 5 minute epoxy when reattaching plastic parts, it is the only glue for tough durable repairs that don’t damage plastic. ****Avoid plastic cements like Faller ‘Expert’, they will melt your loco and coaches.*****************

Siding 1: The shells of both end units on all VT 11.5’s and versions should easily slide off using gently pressure with a small screwdriver placed in the car end located in the coupling hole (*remember to remove coupler before attempting to remove shell) if it is sluggish work both sides with very gentle pressure to avoid cracking or marking shell housing.

Siding 2: 8873 greatly benefits from upgrading the original 3 pole motor to the new E211903 5 pole motor. Because each end unit is powered this train set will require 2 motors with an approximate cost of $100 total, but you can sell the old motors on Ebay for $20 each.

Siding 3: Store your Marklin Z locos on their wheels otherwise the oil will pool inside the loco and not out the bottom. This is an important rule for long term storage.

Testing Testing!!! Marklin Roller Stand 89932

I am not sure when someone came up with the idea for the 1st model train roller stand, but I am sure it was someone who I would have enjoyed meeting. A simple and complex precision instrument, it has quickly become an essential tool.

Several good roller stands for z are on the market, but I am only going to cover the Marklin 89932 which I use, and I would heartily recommend. Not everyone will need a roller stand, it is primarily intended for testing and repair of locomotives, but Marklin mentions in their literature usage for display; it is good looking so I cannot refute this suggestion. Marklin released two roller stands this one and a smaller 4 pair roller #89931 each is delivered in a foam lined cardboard carton with instruction and standard Marklin plugs with two Marklin logos mounted on either side of track section.

An accessory pair of rollers (#89933) can be purchased separately and added to either roller stand. Power is provided by two power terminals at one end, standard Marklin plugs are used as well as the Marklin mini club transformer.

Stainless steel rollers are in pairs, train wheels each sit atop a pair of rollers.

Two pair of rollers per section are adjusted by loosening and sliding. Note: electrical shorts and shocks are eliminated due to the installation of heavy acrylic under each section. The track section is intended for tenders.

Instructions for adding accessory roller pair #89933 is rather simple but care should be taken to put it back together in a specific way as will be outlined:

locate end opposite power end
gently wiggle off white plastic cap
slide white plastic sections out of channels on both sides
clear acrylic block sections are installed with the channel sections
fine holes are drilled through the top portion of acrylic block sections these go on top during reassembly, and metal electrified rods running length of channel fit these holes. Note: if the metal rods are not installed in the holes in the acrylic blocks the unit cannot be put together. *Do not force parts together risking damage, parts if they are correctly installed will go together easilly.
reassemble

*Stay tuned for roller stand in action coupled with the new steam locos with newly designed side rods.

5 Pole Upgrade for the 8998 Turntable

The Marklin 8998 turntable was produced from 1984-2002 featuring 3 pole motor, plastic construction with metal railing details and remote control. The original 3 pole motor can be upgraded to a 5 pole motor part #211914. Repair requires soldering, removal of bridge and disassembly of motor housing. *Special attention should be paid to electrical contacts at each end of bridge as they are delicate and subject to bending, it will not operate correctly if they bend.

The option to upgrade motors is available, but care needs to be taken each step of the way.

Marklin 5 pole motor for swing bridge:

Original 3 pole motor on left next to new 5 pole on right: *Notice capacitor on 3 pole motor is bent forward (usually capacitors are bent in opposite direction in locos).

Step 1: turntable face down *notice plastic cap in center, this is removed to expose center bolt.

Step 2: with center bolt exposed use flat screwdriver to push off spring click that holds bolt together, set aside along with thin brass washer.

Step 3: with a gentle grip of the bridge (careful not to bend or break anything on bridge) push center bolt out and set aside

Step 4: remove bridge from turntable assembly and place face down, notice motor housing identified by small screws holding the compartment together

Step 5: remove 4 screws and set aside compartment door

Step 6: take note of motor and gearing

Step 7: great care should be taken to prevent bending of electric contacts on each end of bridge

Step 8: with soldering iron remove leads to motor

Step 9: remove 3 pole motor, gearing, clean and replace then add a drop Labelle 108 oil to gears and track rollers

Step 10: test motor and break-in brushes with forward and reverse throttle, install new motor, bend capacitor wires as illustrated and solder leads to capacitor

Step 11: capacitor must fit tightly under plastic housing before screwing back together otherwise it might not clear the base of the turntable preventing level smooth turning

Step 12: carefully re-position bridge locating the pointed plastic end of bridge in place before positioning other end. Care should be taken to avoid bending electrical contacts at each end of bridge.

Step 13: replace center bolt, install thin brass washer and spring clip followed by plastic cap.

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