Category Archives: Soldering and Wiring

Lighting Unit for SJ Talsvagn: FR accessory upgrade

Scandinavian railroads are almost exclusively represented in Z by Freudenreich Feinwerktechnik (FR) which also includes Swiss and German prototypes. And less frequently PKP (Poland) and FS (Italy). Almost a year ago after many years in the plan and design stage the 1960 Talsvagn coach was released by FR in its first version with 2 “two car” sets with 1990’s paint scheme (blue with red stripe). Since this release there has been 6 more releases with early brown paint scheme (1960’s-90) and current NetRail paint scheme. Built into the design of each 1960 Talsvagn coach is the ability to retrofit a custom light panel manufactured in Germany by Passmann (Unna, Germany) and sold by FR as an accessory for this coach type. First a list of Talsvagn coaches thus far released.

FR’s releases are sometimes limited to a stated number while others are open editions, but all FR items should be considered rare as each is produced in small batches. The following is a list of 1960 Talsvagn coaches thus far:

46.220.02: open release (available to order)

46.220.12: open release (available to order)

46.220.42: limited to 25 total

46.220.52: limited to 25 total

46.221.02: open release (available to order)

46.221.11: open release (available to order)

46.221.42: limited to 25 total

46.221.52: limited to 25 total

Accessory lighting panel FR article #FR-TV #PA-512 is an LED light panel designed specifically for the 1960 Talsvagn coach, it is a flicker free lighting panel comprised of numerous LED’s which evenly illuminate in realistic terms. It is another outstanding accessory available from FR. Installation is easy (3/5) for those that have decent soldering skills. Instructions are included but lack English text which is not an issue at all because there are nearly 20 very good photographic illustrations.

I have a few notes to add to the included instructions that might be helpful for others retrofitting their coaches:

1. wheel sets pick-up the electricity from the track to power the light panel, each truck is connected with a wire to soldering points at each end of LED circuit board, insulated wheels should be located to one side of truck and this orientation should be carried out in the opposite position for other truck thus each truck’s pair of insulated wheel sets connect with different rails

2. whisker pick-ups should be carefully bent at 30 degree angle, 1.3mm brass bolt (kit includes 2) secures brass electrical pick-up to truck (FR accessory socket wrench 46.221.91 is designed for this bolt size), carefully reinstall wheel sets in aforementioned orientation. NOTE: before screwing bolt in place double check the pre-drilled hole goes all the way through truck housing otherwise the bolt will snap off!!!!!

3. one wire is included which should be cut in half or cut to length, before proceeding tin each end of wire (use of a little water soluble flux is advised), solder end of each wire to bolt protruding from truck with a little flux (touching soldering iron to bolt is better than wire to prevent melting of insulation (solder follows heat thus it is advisable to touch the thing you want to solder versus the wire, tinning the wire expedites the joining making it faster and easier)

4. reattach trucks into chassis with wire through pre-drilled hole, solder wires to solder points on circuit board, test LED panel before affixing to roof! Note: before soldering check orientation of circuit board with interior detailing, capacitors should fit snugly within compartment at end of car

5. roof attaches to circuit board with preinstalled double stick tape, but before installing double check middle clip on roof aligns with panel between window panes versus window otherwise the clip will be seen through the window and it will look terrible. Note: if a mistake is made with roof misalignment after LED panel is installed it will be very difficult to correct so double check/double check!!!! before gluing LED panel to roof!

Special Note: FR’s accessory light panel for the 1960 Talsvagn is easy to install with excellent instructions provided in a step by step format. Please do not deviate from the step by step instructions: all soldering should be quick and take place away from contact with plastic parts that melt thus do not install circuit board to roof panel before soldering wires to circuit board. And do not attempt to solder wire onto truck’s bolt after truck is reinstalled in coach body. All soldering takes place when trucks are separated from coach and circuit board is unattached to roof panel. Tinning wire before soldering makes things a lot easier as it allows for the wire to instantly grab the thing being soldered with minimal heat exchange.

 

 

Marklin F7 A-B-A sets: improving performance

If you are lucky enough to own one of the Marklin F7 sets “Alaska” or “UP” consider this easy repair. Or if you don’t like the wires running through the locos consider this easy repair.

Removing the wires is step 1: cut the wires before removing the shells and carefully remove the wires leading to each circuit board.

Soldering in place four very short wires is step 2: cut 4 small wires to bypass the 4 diodes on both circuit boards and carefully solder the wires in place.

Result: no wires running through the A-B-A units and much improved running performance thus allowing each locomotive to work independently of each other. Note: headlamps will light in both A units at the same time.

Micro-Structures and American Prototype Architecture for Z

Miller Engineering released a line of buildings kits years ago called Micro-Structures designed along the lines of typical architecture found in many small American towns. If you visit Main Street in many USA towns the original buildings haven’t changed much since they were built in the late 19th century, the towns themselves have changed dramatically and some buildings have gone through facelifts and demolition here and there, but for the most part the old buildings are intact thus modeling most any era of American railroading is possible with these building kits.

V101- Victorian House: “Empire” (note: additional scoring is required with this kit)

V606- Victorian House: “The Victoria”

The concentration of the line was on Main Street, but it also included a few Victorian houses that rounded out the line nicely. Note: I am using the past tense because unfortunately the line was discontinued with only a few new kits available here and there from dealer old stock. Ebay is a good source as is ZScaleHobo.com. I found a local dealer who had a few left over kits which were very popular in their day and should be today; they are well designed in historical scale and detailing plus well made out of heavy gauge etched brass.

303- K.C.’s Hardware Store (note: features printed windows with store logo) lime sometimes appears over time in mortar joints and bricks, I applied diluted white paint followed by wiping off to give this effect

404- The Triangle Hotel & Bar (note: features printed window masking for the street level windows as well as clear acetate for the other windows) building as it appears right after painting but before window glazing. Typical building type for a mid size town, but this design first appeared in NYC, that building is called not surprisingly the “Flat Iron Building”

505- Crestline Theater (note: two options for marquee include a solid marquee with etched movie now showing or a cut out marquee designed to hold a paper now showing sign, this building was built with solid marquee) detailing is so good with this kit that a depiction of can lights above the doors is included that look great lit

With a few exceptions the kits go together quite easily, but I found the large Victorian “Empire” House to have shallow scoring lines for bending in this case further scoring was required. Overall the Empire house was the most difficult of the group to make.

606- Pitman’s Deli (note: excellent detailing with printed store windows and beautiful awning, plus recessed door)

I found some kits came with acetate for the windows while others did not, and a couple had just enough for street side windows with very nice printed signage.

901- City Fire Station (note: I tried building this kit years ago with the recommended Super Glue, it was a disaster and tried these kits again until this Fall. Solder is the way to go for me!)

One obvious advantage with these kits is lighting, they will not leak light as the metal is opaque, but you must fashion windows masks or partition walls for realistic effects.

801- Townhouse #2 (note: under construction the model is assembled but prepping it for painting will include sanding solder joint smooth and bending to make the building sit flush, followed by a good cleaning with diluted Dawn, warm water and a soft toothbrush, green residue on building is flux which washes off easily with warm water and original blue Dawn)

Prepping the kits for assembly takes time, any rough edges must be sanded or filed. And after assembly the buildings need thorough cleaning to remove solder flux or other debris. Super Glue or soldering are the choices for assembly, but I prefer soldering due to the speed and control of this method. Soldering is easy if you use flux in addition to the solder with flux. I solder at 750 degrees and place water soluble flux at the area to be soldered with a toothpick. Note: solder melts and follows the source of heat, try to avoid applying solder directly to the soldering iron tip.

100- City Scoop (note: this is the only kit that requires Super Gluing, it is made of stainless steel and solder will not adhere) this building features great detailing including ice cream machines and work table on the interior, plus picnic tables, air conditioning unit and trash cans on the exterior. I had fun with this kit and painted a whimsical ice cream cone. I also left the interior natural stainless steel, but I painted the ice cream machines with silver solvent based paint and painted the outer edge of the ice cream cone with metallic copper solvent based paint just to catch a sparkle there. (note: if you discover a build-up of Super Glue after its cured it can be removed easily with a razor blade and wear gloves working with Super Glue!!!!!!!!!!)

Note: preparation of the building will include sanding or filing smooth any solder ridges or residual glue that will otherwise show up under a thin layer of paint.

Window glazing is glued in place after painting with 5 minute epoxy. As stated earlier acetate was missing in some kits I bought or not enough was included, if you build Archistories kits use some of the leftover acetate as they are very generous at Archistories.

5 minute epoxy might be the best option for securing these buildings to the layout if it is portable otherwise they sit flush to the surface and anchoring may not be required.

The small buildings in this line-up require simply cementing window details in place then folding buildings sections together and cementing. The roof requires bending along sides and molding embellishments before attaching to building. Note: fold the front section of roof first before side sections, a separate folded section goes over the front of the roof thereby giving a nice finishing touch thus do not cement the roof until this part goes on! Note: everything is outlined well in the instructions, my notes are simply to highlight important aspects that arose for me.

These buildings look better in person, and even better with a GG1 rolling by capping off the hard work and meticulous attention to detail involved with their construction. And your family will be proud of your good fortune!

No complaints about these kits, they were fun to build and modify as needed!!! And soon to be very collectible!

Siding: essential brass bending tool is “The Bug”

Cranes Cranes Cranes! by Peter Behnke

Awhile back I featured a MOW vehicle for the SBB available as a printed shell through Shapeways, it is the design and handiwork of Peter Behnke who’s designs for numerous interesting Z are available at Shapeways.

Mr. Behnke prior to the printed Shapeway models produced small batches of nickel etched build kits for rail vehicles and industrial machines including cranes here we have four of those cranes:

1. 1944 KRUPP ARDELT Dier 1 

2. TAKRAF RDK 160

3. TAKRAF RDK 280

4. TAKRAF RDK 300

Finely detailed etched kits originally delivered without assembly instructions are now available with limited instructions from Scandinavian Shops or qualitytoytrains on Ebay. Numerous filigree parts and thin metal make for some challenges, but they get easier after the first one or two as does most things. Various levels of expertise will be on display for those who take on these kits including soldering and painting skills, but most importantly prepping and bending parts before assembly.

First: orientation to the parts sheet or as one person has said looking at a puzzle with no idea how it goes together

Second: separate parts from sheet and gently sand any rough edges

Third: gently fold parts following photo guides here or in the instruction sheet provided with current purchases through Scandinavian Shops *each kit will have unique challenges and instructions will become more of a distraction from common sense as anyone may attest that assembles these intricate and delicate kits

note: best tool for bending etched metal parts is “The Bug”, it is part of my essential Z toolbox:

The Bug is available at ZScaleMonster.com: http://www.zscalemonster.com/the_small_shop/

Fourth: soldering or super glue are the choices for assembling, I prefer solder because it is quick and gap filling

Fifth: a cleaning phase follows before painting, I use original Dawn liquid (blue) diluted in warm water and using a soft toothbrush gently go over all surfaces to clean off any debris or flux followed by thorough drying

Six: determine your paint color and either spray or brush water based paints, I do not recommend solvent based model paint for these kits, I have found it easier to apply layers of color with water based model paints and the flat surface appearance takes better to aging and weathering

Seventh: spray a diluted water based lacquer over the model to add durability to the painted surface followed by rigging the lines from hook to winding drum

Note: the kits do not provide some required parts including pulley wheels so some extra effort is required to fashion the essential parts for securing rig lines

Note: weighting the cabin is required for some cranes, test before securing cabin to deck, if it topples over maybe cement a small hex nut inside

Note: cranes can be assembled to allow the cabin to rotate on the deck of the crane, pre-drilled holes are provided, but tiny machine screws are not, I determined the placement of the cabin and soldered in place, I also soldered in place the boom which can also be assembled to move, but I do not recommend it: parts are to flimsy for continuous movement at the joint where the two meet

Note: the crane boom in all the kits is one piece featuring bending seams, I soldered all seams to ensure a solid construction, due to the nature of the parts SuperGlue will not work for this step as a gap filling material is required.

Note: soldering is easy with flux, I use water based flux applied to the area I want to solder with a toothpick, heating the material with a soldering iron makes the solder flow toward the heat and to the area to be joined *solder is not applied directly to soldering iron tip unless the area to be joined is too space restrictive *solder with a flux core is recommended with additional flux applied to the area to be soldered

Siding: the right tools make all the difference as with soldering the very best tool I have found is the Hako FX-951 soldering station, it features interchangeable tips, solder resistant pad, sleep mode with iron craddle, and multi function control box *best tool I bought in 2017!!!

 

 

Soldering Irons: 2 choices for small works

Honing one’s skill with soldering is gained over time and the right tools help.

The most important tool is the soldering iron, many good ones are on the market so deciding which one feels good in your hand trumps every recommendation I will hence forth make. Working with mini-club due to small scale and plastics require delicate operation so one cannot stress the importance of an iron that is comfortable, but two irons that I want to share have been newly introduced to me that are very good and both made by Weller.

The first iron is part of a kit, it is sold with a base station that includes a holder and sponge, but it also regulates the output if the iron is plugged into it. It comes with a standard flat tip, but numerous tips are available including pencil tips which I like for circuit board soldering. This kit sells without solder for $45 on Ebay with free shipping. Features solid construction and multiple heat settings: Weller SPG 40.

The second iron is battery operated, it works with 4 batteries and reaches full output in 30 seconds. Weller claims it will do hundreds of soldered joints with one set of batteries, when it stops melting solder it is time for a new change of batteries. It is a really nice iron for easy cordless operation and lightweight handling plus includes a work light. The standard tip is a pencil tip, the kit also includes a clip to hold it between solders, solder, and batteries. This is $20 at Sears Hardware. One difficulty with this iron is the rather tenacious grip of the battery holder clips, it is required to press the sides of the battery holder to slide the compartment out which is not easy. The solder also includes a plastic cap to keep the tip clean during storage, I recommend removing the batteries between uses in case the switch is turned on thereby possibly creating a fire hazard! Two settings on the power button include low and high temp, I found low temp worked perfectly for soldering fine solder and 30 gauge wire: Weller Light Duty 6-8 watts cordless battery operated iron.

Siding: flux core solder is the recommended due to its ease of use, it does not require a separate flux.

Tinning: the soldering practice briefly explained

Tinning is simply the soldering of stranded wire to make solid wire, but many railroaders are not aware of this practice and its benefits.

Why tin? Soldering the ends of stranded wire eliminates the fraying of stranded wire which can become a nuisance over time when the wires leading from the feeder track have to be stripped for the transformer posts. Also this type of wire is easier to cut to length for intricate repair work. It is not recommended for Marklin plugs because it can be brittle and break when screwed into these connections, Marklin wire makes a better connection with these plugs.

Before soldering a connection it is recommended practice to tin the ends of stranded wire to make soldering easier.

Siding: mini-club wiring of circuit boards can be a touchy exercise, tinning the ends of wires to be used and cut to just enough length will shorten the time the circuit board is subjected to soldering.