Category Archives: Etched Nickel and Brass Build Kits

FR: Swedish L5 Steam Locomotive for the SJ

SJ L5 Steam Locomotive (note: jack-shaft and no cylinders)

FR L5 locomotive and tender pulling SJ coach produced in FR’s regular production schedule

The basis for FR’s steam locomotive L5 for the SJ is a build kit, it is further a kit reliant on using one of Marklin’s class 74’s for the frame and drive mechanism. What is included in the kit are all parts to for building the locomotive body and tender thus installed on a Marklin class 74 chassis.

FR Item #46.140.91 Build Kit for SJ’s L5 loco

I started this project a while ago, but it and this blog went fishing due in part to the upsets in 2020 we all shared. I include this post as the finished follow-up to my earlier post about this kit. The “Do’s and Don’ts” are important for other build kits of this nature, I hope to track some of the key areas which may in kind translate from this rather obscure kit to other kits likewise designed: cast metal parts, nickel silver parts, cast plastic parts and wiring modifications. Hope this helps my friends in Z.

Step 1 (purchase): the kit arrives with parts and instructions in a hard plastic shell, it costs about $100, maybe more since it is out of production as most FR items quickly gain that status. Building the kit requires bending metal parts, soldering metal parts, gluing, painting and wiring. In all the project took a day which spilled over to another thus it took me approximately 12 hours. Although the instructions help they do not substitute for one’s own practical evaluation of what needs to be done.

Step 2 (painful): choosing the Marklin class 74 loco to sacrifice. The prototype L5 had black wheels thus there are just two Marklin’s which can be used without painting the wheel sets, I chose 88956 with black wheels.

Marklin Class 74 chassis and shell framing FR’s L5 in center of photo

Marklin Class 74 with characteristic red wheels most often found on this class loco in Mini-Club

Marklin Class 74’s shell is entirely cast whereas the FR kit features a cast boiler only

Step 3: building the loco cabin and tender comprise nickel silver parts which readily solder, but add-on parts including railings and steps are stainless steel which normally require special solder in this case I glued on the stainless steel add-on’s with 5 minute epoxy using care in only applying small drops as needed. Curved cabin roof is another challenge here, I found the thick metal hard to bend around a small dowel, but it eventually ceded with the help of a pliant hard foam surface. “The Bug” bending tool worked great for producing the cap on the cabin as well as the bend on the smoke deflectors.

FR L5 shell before application of decals

Step 4: tender frame and wheel sets is one of the more easy procedures this far, it includes bending a nickel silver frame to hold 3 pairs of wheels. Plastic cast truck details are glued onto the frame after using a Dremel tool to smooth the edges. Note: I used 5 minute epoxy sparingly and not near to axle holes for the wheels: don’t want to glue the wheels in place, they need to spin freely (double check). A circuit board with pick-ups secures to a weight inside the tender which is also secured to the frame with a screw. Pick-ups must engage with inner sides of wheels as they will carry electricity to the motor in the loco. Finally wires are soldered to each side of circuit board as they will eventually be soldered to brushes in the loco.

FR L5 Tender with wires protruding later soldered to motor pick-ups in loco

Step 5: assembly of locomotive includes attaching cabin, boiler and smoke deflectors. Note: cast boiler is the main part and cannot be soldered!!!!!! Don’t melt the boiler instead glue on the cabin, smoke deflectors and ladder with 5 minute epoxy.

Cabin with add-on parts including ladders and railings. Note: stainless steel add-on parts can be glued with 5 minute epoxy otherwise solder formulated for stainless steel is required. Cabin includes a rounded roof which is molded around a small dowel. Note: solder is only applied to cabin with remaining cabin parts glued with 5 minute epoxy.

Step 6: time to paint is best done with airbrush and water soluble airbrush paints, but first gently wash all parts in a dilute solution of blue Dawn and allow to dry. I chose Vallejo #70.950 Black which is a deep black. I would recommend priming first which I did not do thus my paint may not be as strong as it should be primarily on the boiler other parts the paint is strong without primer. Paper loco plaques are cut out and glued to the oval indents on cabin housing while SJ logo is dry transfer. A clear lacquer is finally applied to protect the finish.

I rendered the headlamps only, but there is the possibility drilling out the headlamps and utilizing LED module. The downside to lighting the loco is difficulty masking this shell.

Step 7: FR’s kit installed on Marklin chassis is fairly uncomplicated, but this step may rely on the use of a Dremel tool with grinding wheel. First: modifying the chassis for better prototypical appearance: remove cylinders which are clipped onto frame. Note: L5 prototype utilized a jackshaft attached to the side rods thus simplifying the appearance includes removing the cylinders and side rods formerly engaged with cylinders. Note: instructions show a 2 armed jackshaft leading from the center wheel, I opted to not install a jackshaft because I could not grasp how it attached to frame, it also appeared to be problematic for running the loco. With a razor blade carefully cut away leading heat point on front coupler and remove coupler and spring. You will notice much less room within the FR loco shell compared with the former Marklin shell thus some modification of the shell is needed to allow the two to come together. After locating the included brass bushing install it within the Marklin chassis which coincides with the steam dome, it will turn into place leaving 1/8th – 3/16’s of an inch protruding to make contact with screw thru steam dome securing loco shell to chassis.

Marklin unmodified chassis for #88956 showing cylinders which will be removed.

Completed FR L5 kit without installation of jack-shaft. Note: wiring includes pick-ups in tender with wires soldered to motor brushes in loco thereby adding 6 additional wheels to pick-up electricity for the motor.

FR’s SJ L5 steam locomotive build kit: 46.140.91

Sweden’s early L5 steam locomotive featured a jack-shaft similarly found on other early locomotives including the Bavarian electric locomotive EP 3/6. Following up with a follow-up to another follow-up is the progress report on the FR build kit 46.140.91: SJ’s L5 locomotive.

Out of production again this build kit is very challenging, it took me two kits to get good results, but never having built an FR loco kit before I chalked up the first as a learning curve for this and other FR kits. Note: kit has not been available twice thus far, but it is still featured on FR’s website: if you are interested let Harald know, he maybe planning a third release.

The kit comes with everything except the chassis and motor assembly, that is found by buying a second hand Marklin version 8895 tank loco, I will be using the SNCB or SNCF version due to the black spoke wheels. Adapting the Marklin chassis to the finished shell will take some pre-planning, and I will be covering this topic in a future post. For now I will be giving details on the project from the standpoint of completing the shell and tender.

Photos include Marklin 88951 tank loco chassis (top) and shell (bottom) with assembled FR L5 shell in middle of picture.

The materials include laser cut nickel silver, stainless steel, cast plastic and cast pot metal for boiler.

The tender is designed with pick-ups to add 6 additional conductive wheels which are essential with short steam locomotive types. Metal sheet parts were soldered while handrails and buffers were epoxied in place. Plastic castings are epoxied on side of truck frame after customizing their shape to fit with top shell of tender, I found the Dremel tool handy for this task.

Note: wires sticking out of tender are attached to mini circuit board that connects to wheel pick-ups. These same wires will be soldered to pick-ups on motor during the final assembly stage.

The locomotive is made of up cast metal boiler, nickel silver parts and stainless steel. Cabin: roof is rounded around a very small wood dowel, soldered along with the other parts and ground to make a perfect round shape with Dremel tool. Small roof cap is added at the end of assembly. Stainless steel add-on parts are epoxied in place. Boiler: smooth out underside of casting as needed, pre-drill buffer holes and mounting screw (shell to chassis screw) as per included instructions and epoxy latter in place. Note: all parts attached to boiler should be epoxied, solder will melt the pot metal casting! Ladders and handrails are stainless steel and resist soldering thus epoxy these parts in place. Note: a variation of the 1st batch of boilers and this one includes new placement of the smoke deflector brackets which in this version is much better.

Finishing: best painting results are with airbrush (15-20psi) using water based paints starting with primer followed by two light coats of top coat followed by protective coat of water based primer. Headlamps are painted last with tiny drops of white paint applied with pin. Some touch-up with a fine brush maybe needed so add a brush to the tool kit for this project.

Putting the finished shell and tender with Marklin ready made chassis and motor will require some disassembly of the side rods and riveting a jack shaft in place as is found with the prototype, but knowing the most difficult task is yet to be I am finishing another project before tackling the final stage of constructing the L5.

Essential equipment: -Dremel tool with grinding and drill bits -fine paint brush -airbrush -soldering iron with fine point tip -5 minute epoxy -water based paints

Siding: old Kodak plastic 35mm film canisters work great for paint mixing and storage

Swiss Alpine Structures in Z

If you are a specialist Swiss modeler in Z chances are building structures have been difficult to find off the shelf. Or perhaps you are already building scratch-built structures. This post focuses on two rare off the shelf structures, but they could also be successfully built with balsa wood from your local hobby store.

Two very interesting alpine structures are a covered bridge and guardhouse used on the RhB railway (Rhaetian Railway). The covered bridge was offered fully built by FiDES of Switzerland, it featured balsa wood construction with printed (not etched) shake tile roof.

I wasn’t able to find any current information for this company, this one being the only example I have found. I cannot verify when the bridge was produced or whether it was marketed outside Switzerland, I found this one on Ebay.

In addition to being fully assembled the bridge was further glued in place within the cardboard carton thus I was not able to do a great job photographing it for the blog post. By my count the bridge incorporates over 100 individual parts each measured, cut and assembled: lot’s of work.

A similar bridge could be scratch-built using balsa wood and leftover parts from other kits for the roof. Good scenery construction could include this bridge known to Alpine hikers in multiples along a path and over water or even rock falls. Steep inclined features would also include granite outcroppings, pine trees, snow or random length grasses with pretty flowers. Bridge used in a town setting would also feature flower boxes because hey this is Switzerland.

Another good Swiss alpine structure is an older FR building kit for guardhouse on the RhB railway.

Very infrequently FR produces metal and wood structures that bespeak the precision and historical accuracy presented by FR in each one their releases. This building kit includes numerous dimensional strands of balsa wood as well as etched balsa and nickel parts including window frames.

Instructions are in German with excellent photo illustrations, using illustrations only I was able to deduce the order and correct assembly of all parts. Metal gutters and downspouts I will add in the future along with finish work, but at this point it looks pretty good, and I am happy with the results.

Although a very small building it required hours of assembly including measuring and cutting window glazing plus measuring and gluing all other parts.

A good solid building that features already painted metal shutters, doors and window frames. Roofing material had to be measured then cut, it was printed on textured paper to give the look of three dimensional terracotta tile, even the color is very good.

I probably won’t add aging to this structure as I associate Switzerland without air pollution, but perhaps even darkening is a correct patina? Chimney will get dressed up with a piece of flagstone during finishing touches as well as stucco application to sides with white paint. Footing for vertical support beam will also be painted concrete. And one cannot forget flower boxes hey this is Switzerland!

The prototype probably included a signal and short siding for passing trains, but as of this writing I have not found a picture of the prototype. For the layout this building could be connected to the hiking path previously suggested with the bridge, it too could have been a way station for hikers boarding a train, but this is a far off structure in the mountains inaccessible to auto traffic.

Siding: outstanding glue with easy applicator is Noch Laser-Cut Adhesive #61104 available from zscalehobo.com, I highly recommend this glue for laser-cut card stock, balsa wood, and metal or any combination thereof.

SBB CFF FFS L2 Freight Car

Released as a kit, this type L2 freight car for SBB CFF FFS was produced by FR. It was delivered with nickel silver parts and dry transfer lettering, this one I purchased assembled from an Ebay seller.

The kit is another early example that used some Marklin parts with FR add-on parts as well as design. The chassis and wheel sets are Marklin and all other parts are FR. Nickel silver parts arrived on a sheet that required separation of parts followed by painting and lettering. The modeler who put this one together did a pretty good job, it appears 5 minute epoxy was used as the cement. Note: a final coat of semi-gloss water based lacquer is sprayed over the decals for protection.

The L2 freight car is used on the Swiss Federal Railways to haul scrap metal. The open grate design on top half of car versus solid sides maybe used to cut down on car weight.

Assembling FR kits is for experienced modelers, instructions are always printed in German and knowledge bending and cementing thin metal parts is a further requirement. Best painting is carried out with water based paints and airbrushing.

Siding: Faller’s laser-cut Bahnhof Huinghausen station provides the backdrop for this post.

Micro-Structures and American Prototype Architecture for Z

Miller Engineering released a line of buildings kits years ago called Micro-Structures designed along the lines of typical architecture found in many small American towns. If you visit Main Street in many USA towns the original buildings haven’t changed much since they were built in the late 19th century, the towns themselves have changed dramatically and some buildings have gone through facelifts and demolition here and there, but for the most part the old buildings are intact thus modeling most any era of American railroading is possible with these building kits.

V101- Victorian House: “Empire” (note: additional scoring is required with this kit)

V606- Victorian House: “The Victoria”

The concentration of the line was on Main Street, but it also included a few Victorian houses that rounded out the line nicely. Note: I am using the past tense because unfortunately the line was discontinued with only a few new kits available here and there from dealer old stock. Ebay is a good source as is ZScaleHobo.com. I found a local dealer who had a few left over kits which were very popular in their day and should be today; they are well designed in historical scale and detailing plus well made out of heavy gauge etched brass.

303- K.C.’s Hardware Store (note: features printed windows with store logo) lime sometimes appears over time in mortar joints and bricks, I applied diluted white paint followed by wiping off to give this effect

404- The Triangle Hotel & Bar (note: features printed window masking for the street level windows as well as clear acetate for the other windows) building as it appears right after painting but before window glazing. Typical building type for a mid size town, but this design first appeared in NYC, that building is called not surprisingly the “Flat Iron Building”

505- Crestline Theater (note: two options for marquee include a solid marquee with etched movie now showing or a cut out marquee designed to hold a paper now showing sign, this building was built with solid marquee) detailing is so good with this kit that a depiction of can lights above the doors is included that look great lit

With a few exceptions the kits go together quite easily, but I found the large Victorian “Empire” House to have shallow scoring lines for bending in this case further scoring was required. Overall the Empire house was the most difficult of the group to make.

606- Pitman’s Deli (note: excellent detailing with printed store windows and beautiful awning, plus recessed door)

I found some kits came with acetate for the windows while others did not, and a couple had just enough for street side windows with very nice printed signage.

901- City Fire Station (note: I tried building this kit years ago with the recommended Super Glue, it was a disaster and tried these kits again until this Fall. Solder is the way to go for me!)

One obvious advantage with these kits is lighting, they will not leak light as the metal is opaque, but you must fashion windows masks or partition walls for realistic effects.

801- Townhouse #2 (note: under construction the model is assembled but prepping it for painting will include sanding solder joint smooth and bending to make the building sit flush, followed by a good cleaning with diluted Dawn, warm water and a soft toothbrush, green residue on building is flux which washes off easily with warm water and original blue Dawn)

Prepping the kits for assembly takes time, any rough edges must be sanded or filed. And after assembly the buildings need thorough cleaning to remove solder flux or other debris. Super Glue or soldering are the choices for assembly, but I prefer soldering due to the speed and control of this method. Soldering is easy if you use flux in addition to the solder with flux. I solder at 750 degrees and place water soluble flux at the area to be soldered with a toothpick. Note: solder melts and follows the source of heat, try to avoid applying solder directly to the soldering iron tip.

100- City Scoop (note: this is the only kit that requires Super Gluing, it is made of stainless steel and solder will not adhere) this building features great detailing including ice cream machines and work table on the interior, plus picnic tables, air conditioning unit and trash cans on the exterior. I had fun with this kit and painted a whimsical ice cream cone. I also left the interior natural stainless steel, but I painted the ice cream machines with silver solvent based paint and painted the outer edge of the ice cream cone with metallic copper solvent based paint just to catch a sparkle there. (note: if you discover a build-up of Super Glue after its cured it can be removed easily with a razor blade and wear gloves working with Super Glue!!!!!!!!!!)

Note: preparation of the building will include sanding or filing smooth any solder ridges or residual glue that will otherwise show up under a thin layer of paint.

Window glazing is glued in place after painting with 5 minute epoxy. As stated earlier acetate was missing in some kits I bought or not enough was included, if you build Archistories kits use some of the leftover acetate as they are very generous at Archistories.

5 minute epoxy might be the best option for securing these buildings to the layout if it is portable otherwise they sit flush to the surface and anchoring may not be required.

The small buildings in this line-up require simply cementing window details in place then folding buildings sections together and cementing. The roof requires bending along sides and molding embellishments before attaching to building. Note: fold the front section of roof first before side sections, a separate folded section goes over the front of the roof thereby giving a nice finishing touch thus do not cement the roof until this part goes on! Note: everything is outlined well in the instructions, my notes are simply to highlight important aspects that arose for me.

These buildings look better in person, and even better with a GG1 rolling by capping off the hard work and meticulous attention to detail involved with their construction. And your family will be proud of your good fortune!

No complaints about these kits, they were fun to build and modify as needed!!! And soon to be very collectible!

Siding: essential brass bending tool is “The Bug”

The 1935 NIEMAG GLEISBAUKRAN is monumental!

Crane, maintenance of way railcar, or a crazy thing with lots of hooks? All of the above, but what stands out is its sheer size and without a description who knows what it is?!?!

The railcar with the big boom installed over a million window cabin is for track construction, assembled track sections could be offloaded from a flat car, traverse through the car above the cabin and placed on other side for installation.

Winding drum and machines are modeled inside the cabin. I chose to paint the machine in dark brown with weathering along the lower part of cabin as a disused railway vehicle on a siding.

Constructing the model was relatively easy compared with others by Behnke although I found the cabin to be a tight and difficult fit on the chassis. The mistakes I made with this kit was installing the cabin higher on the frame than it should be, but I found the fitting too difficult, it did not readily slide into place. The second mistake was installing the hooks too low in the boom, they should have been attached higher inside the boom frame to realistically allow track to slide through channel above cabin. One day I will receive buffers for this and maybe then correct the hooks, but in the meantime it is a pretty cool contraption!

Battery Powered Locomotive from 1929? YES Behnke!

A locomotive that will surely garner attention on a Z layout is this small battery powered locomotive and trailer based on the prototype from 1929: Behnke release “1929 AKKUTRIEBWAGEN Muller.

Built by G. Muller in 1929 the locomotive appears to have been used for MOW service and yard work. Standing room only in the cabin this was a no frills work a day probably every day workhorse.

I sprayed the completed model in a dark red brown, followed by an inky black to top structures and finished with dry brush in a very dark gray to accentuate the details of the trucks and platforms. Headlamps are rendered in bright white paint with very fine brush.

Note: Behnke kits do not provide couplers, wheel sets or buffers, this model is awaiting buffers from FR available later in 2018.

Nagel & Kamp railway crane by Peter Behnke

Another interesting railway vehicle is this early railway crane by Nagel & Kamp released in Z by Behnke.

As with other Behnke kits wheel sets and buffers have to be purchased separately, they are available from FR and Marklin.

An interesting and early crane that will add interest to a siding or alongside a railway building.

Assembly was easier than other Behnke kits but still challenging as the parts are small and bendable joints easily break. A little weight was applied to the inside of cabin to prevent it from tipping over. Window glazing can be installed although I chose not to.

Crane boom has a fixed pitch and a winding drum is not depicted , I used a fine brown thread for the rigging line affixed to a beam that I had to supply.

Cranes Cranes Cranes! by Peter Behnke

Awhile back I featured a MOW vehicle for the SBB available as a printed shell through Shapeways, it is the design and handiwork of Peter Behnke who’s designs for numerous interesting Z are available at Shapeways.

Mr. Behnke prior to the printed Shapeway models produced small batches of nickel etched build kits for rail vehicles and industrial machines including cranes here we have four of those cranes:

1. 1944 KRUPP ARDELT Dier 1

2. TAKRAF RDK 160

3. TAKRAF RDK 280

4. TAKRAF RDK 300

Finely detailed etched kits originally delivered without assembly instructions are now available with limited instructions from Scandinavian Shops or qualitytoytrains on Ebay. Numerous filigree parts and thin metal make for some challenges, but they get easier after the first one or two as does most things. Various levels of expertise will be on display for those who take on these kits including soldering and painting skills, but most importantly prepping and bending parts before assembly.

First: orientation to the parts sheet or as one person has said looking at a puzzle with no idea how it goes together

Second: separate parts from sheet and gently sand any rough edges

Third: gently fold parts following photo guides here or in the instruction sheet provided with current purchases through Scandinavian Shops *each kit will have unique challenges and instructions will become more of a distraction from common sense as anyone may attest that assembles these intricate and delicate kits

note: best tool for bending etched metal parts is “The Bug”, it is part of my essential Z toolbox:

The Bug is available at ZScaleMonster.com: http://www.zscalemonster.com/the_small_shop/

Fourth: soldering or super glue are the choices for assembling, I prefer solder because it is quick and gap filling

Fifth: a cleaning phase follows before painting, I use original Dawn liquid (blue) diluted in warm water and using a soft toothbrush gently go over all surfaces to clean off any debris or flux followed by thorough drying

Six: determine your paint color and either spray or brush water based paints, I do not recommend solvent based model paint for these kits, I have found it easier to apply layers of color with water based model paints and the flat surface appearance takes better to aging and weathering

Seventh: spray a diluted water based lacquer over the model to add durability to the painted surface followed by rigging the lines from hook to winding drum

Note: the kits do not provide some required parts including pulley wheels so some extra effort is required to fashion the essential parts for securing rig lines

Note: weighting the cabin is required for some cranes, test before securing cabin to deck, if it topples over maybe cement a small hex nut inside

Note: cranes can be assembled to allow the cabin to rotate on the deck of the crane, pre-drilled holes are provided, but tiny machine screws are not, I determined the placement of the cabin and soldered in place, I also soldered in place the boom which can also be assembled to move, but I do not recommend it: parts are to flimsy for continuous movement at the joint where the two meet

Note: the crane boom in all the kits is one piece featuring bending seams, I soldered all seams to ensure a solid construction, due to the nature of the parts SuperGlue will not work for this step as a gap filling material is required.

Note: soldering is easy with flux, I use water based flux applied to the area I want to solder with a toothpick, heating the material with a soldering iron makes the solder flow toward the heat and to the area to be joined *solder is not applied directly to soldering iron tip unless the area to be joined is too space restrictive *solder with a flux core is recommended with additional flux applied to the area to be soldered

Siding: the right tools make all the difference as with soldering the very best tool I have found is the Hako FX-951 soldering station, it features interchangeable tips, solder resistant pad, sleep mode with iron craddle, and multi function control box *best tool I bought in 2017!!!

New SJ L5 steam locomotive build kit from FR: Part 2

Not long ago I posted about FR’s recent release of the class L5 steam loco for SJ, it is a build kit, and I just received mine today! The kit is a well designed precision kit, it provides a rarity for Z modeling.

The kit comes packaged in a plastic container with numerous parts enclosed along with visual instructions. It is a kit that requires a Marklin 8801, 88956 or 8803 for motive power along with modification of the side rods and painting the wheels black. The cylinders were placed within the locomotive chassis in the prototype thus the cylinders are removed for this model.

Note: Marklin tender is not required for this kit which provides the correct prototypical tender for the loco.

For those experienced with building rolling stock in Z or working with nickel silver this kit is self explanatory, but for the inexperienced modeler this kit should not be the first. Accumulating some experience with building etched metal buildings should probably come first for new modelers: gaining soldering experience with bigger parts first will be invaluable for assembling the small parts in this kit. I am in the process of learning to do these kits starting first with the excellent non powered Behnke kits offered by Scandinavian Galleries Quality Toys. Behnke kits do not provide instructions and careful interpretation is required to fully understand how they go together, but they are excellent kits that combine gluing, soldering and bending of small nickel silver parts; they provide a good place to start before tackling the very interesting L5 kit.

The packaging of the L5 kit separates parts according to their purpose instead of throwing everything together thus taking care of the guesswork. The beautifully cast metal boiler and cast plastic tender trucks are included with etched nickel and add-on parts such as the buffers which are brass. The tender also includes a tiny circuit board to allow it to pick-up power with its three axles.

Note: The age old technique of picking up additional power from the tender’s wheelsets is a very effective way to increase performance of small steam locos through turnouts and the like!

Some of the add-on parts are super tiny so I highly recommend a very fine tip soldering iron as well as 5 minute epoxy which work hand in hand on models. Until I build this kit I won’t exercise a preference for using glue over solder and vice versa for specific steps, suffice to say solder will be used more.

Paint finish will be applied with airbrush and water based paint followed by decals provided. A finish coat of clear water based acrylic is always required otherwise the finish and decals would wear.

The kit is FR Item #46.140.91, it is currently available.

What you need to complete the locomotive: 1. Marklin 8801, 88956, or 8803 2. water based paint best suited for airbrushing 3. patience 4. time 5. soldering iron and/or 5 minute epoxy 6. tweezers 7. Xacto blade for cutting parts from sheet 8. time 9. patience 10. magnifying binoculars

Be the first kid on the block to own an L5 SJ steam locomotive in Z!

Stayed tuned for my future post on the completed L5 along with some tips on building the kit.

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