Category Archives: Layouts

Archistories: New Possibilities for the Marklin Transfer Table

Archistories has designed and engineered a new loco shed (ARC-104171) for the Marklin Transfer Table 89941 currently discontinued by Marklin. The new 5 stall shed is based on steel framework with brick infill. Other examples of German “New Objectivity” architecture can be found in Archistories offerings including the very excellent single loco shed: ARC-101101.

Marklin’s original two stall loco shed for the transfer table was a rather chunky plastic example that featured remote activated doors that “snapped” open. The just released shed by Archistories is a much finer example of prototypical architectural rendering with large windows and skylights.

The doors on this building are comprised of two parts with glazing that snaps into place versus glued on window glazing seen in other manufacturers’ models. Owing to greater build quality than can be found in other manufacturers card-stock buildings are doors that swing open and closed with great precision.

Overall the building goes together quite systematically with relative ease, the only difficult step is assembling the skylights, here there are delicate framework parts that have to be bent, but I have a solution. Using the blunt side of a pair of tweezers burnish the un-scored side of the card-stock framework,

the parts will slightly curl thereby allowing a much easier bending of these parts. Also when installing the window glazing use your finger nails or toothpick to gently push glazing in place versus a sharp object that could scratch or dimple the plastic.

Available in the United States at ZScaleHobo.com and AScaleMonster.com.

Good Luck and have fun railroading!

Archistories: Cooling Towers with active steam simulation!!!!

Adding another essential release to Z is Archistories “Cooling Tower”: ARC-701171 (1 tower per kit). Here is an interesting example of industrial architecture whose scale will be very interesting on a layout.

These cooling towers use a lot of filigree parts to form the framework of the model along with railings and steps. Overall the kit is pretty easy to assemble, it is well designed and the parts are precisely cut. The only difficulty with this kit is working with the ladder, steps and railings due to their lightweight nature, but careful handing and a no rush pace is helpful. Very small drops of glue are all that is ever needed with these precision card-stock kits, use as little glue as possible!

A few of Archistories kits include motor driven parts such as windmill and water wheel, this kit offers something different, it has a smoke generation device which will simulate the steam coming out of a prototypical cooling tower.

The device comes complete with the liquid required to stir things up in the smoke chimney whose leads are hooked-up to the accessory leads on the mini-club transformer or better yet a Marklin distribution strip and controller. The manufacturer provides an acetate disk to protect the base of the cooling tower from spills. And the building is also designed to be lifted off of the foundation for refilling the smoke generator thus gluing the tower to the base is not advisable if you plan on using the smoke generator.

At 4 1/2 inches tall the scale of this building looms over the rather large diesel locomotive passing by. Adding this new architecture to your layout will be an interesting focal point for trains passing through the industrial landscape as it will be a good reference point for prototypical modeling.

Available in the United States from ZScaleHobo.com and ZScaleMonster.com.

Marklin 89941 Transfer Table: brief notes on history and repair

First introduced to the mini-club line-up in 1977 the 8994 transfer table would remain unchanged in design until 2002 when it was upgraded with a 5 pole motor and the item number was extended by a ‘1’. From 2003 until 2012 the 89941 transfer table was available with a few packaging changes including white versus blue transformer and controller plus a five pole motor. Manufactured throughout its long history in Italy the transfer table is a very well designed and precision accessory for mini-club, it could be used on a layout for modeling steam and diesel, but it could also be accessorized with catenary for electric locos.

I have seen many early and late transfer tables and all were in excellent working condition owing to the excellent design and manufacturing.

The one and only issue with the transfer table 89941 that is easily overcome has to do with delivery specs, three times 89941 was delivered to a local dealer from Walthers and each was afflicted with the same issue: motor housing top plate separation and subsequently gearing detached along with operators’ cabin. No fear, I was able to easily put each back together again. Probably poor packing and shipping from Walthers to Pennsylvania shook things up a bit, but the problem was easily mitigated, and I wanted to share brief notes on the motor housing for new and old transfer table fixes, repairs and restorations.

The motor housing on the transfer table is easily accessed by slipping off the operators’ cabin and then gently working off the top plate of the motor housing which is held in place by clips. Inside the motor housing three sets of gears and the motor. If you need to remove hardened oil simply remove the vertical gear and top gearing to connects with motor and soak in original (blue) Windex, leave motor and second gear in place and with careful use of toothpick, tweezers and very small cleaning cloth remove dirt and hardened oil from the inside of motor housing. Don’t obsess here, normal loco dirt and debris such hair do not afflict this part, careful not to add lint to the housing by cleaning.

To reassemble the motor housing locate mounting hole for vertical gear in base of motor housing (see shiny brass part with hole in base), worm drive end of gear sits in this hole. Note: worm gears align with regular gears only, they do not function together. Large gear is correctly installed on top engaged with worm gear (bushing on each end of top gear that engages with motor allow it to move freely, double check this gear is properly installed before proceeding). Before attaching top plate locate hole with brass bushing, this hole will align with top of vertical gear. Lastly slide on top plate and test.

Underside of top plate with brass bushing, top of vertical gear sits within the bushing.

Everything fits correctly when the motor housing has no gaps.

Note: bridge only moves with power applied when gearing is properly installed, it will not move freely unless the vertical gear is removed from the motor housing.

Don’t be afraid to buy the transfer table used, I have never seen one that can’t be restored with a simple cleaning or realignment of the bridge and those include some late 1970’s examples.

Good luck and happy railroading. Stay tuned for the next post, an exciting loco shed to go with the transfer table has just been released!

Archistories ARC-104171:

Siding: realistic modeling might include weathering of the bridge and attaching corrugated steel in the form of laser cut cardstock to the roof of the operators’ cabin.

Micro-Structures and American Prototype Architecture for Z

Miller Engineering released a line of buildings kits years ago called Micro-Structures designed along the lines of typical architecture found in many small American towns. If you visit Main Street in many USA towns the original buildings haven’t changed much since they were built in the late 19th century, the towns themselves have changed dramatically and some buildings have gone through facelifts and demolition here and there, but for the most part the old buildings are intact thus modeling most any era of American railroading is possible with these building kits.

V101- Victorian House: “Empire” (note: additional scoring is required with this kit)

V606- Victorian House: “The Victoria”

The concentration of the line was on Main Street, but it also included a few Victorian houses that rounded out the line nicely. Note: I am using the past tense because unfortunately the line was discontinued with only a few new kits available here and there from dealer old stock. Ebay is a good source as is ZScaleHobo.com. I found a local dealer who had a few left over kits which were very popular in their day and should be today; they are well designed in historical scale and detailing plus well made out of heavy gauge etched brass.

303- K.C.’s Hardware Store (note: features printed windows with store logo) lime sometimes appears over time in mortar joints and bricks, I applied diluted white paint followed by wiping off to give this effect

404- The Triangle Hotel & Bar (note: features printed window masking for the street level windows as well as clear acetate for the other windows) building as it appears right after painting but before window glazing. Typical building type for a mid size town, but this design first appeared in NYC, that building is called not surprisingly the “Flat Iron Building”

505- Crestline Theater (note: two options for marquee include a solid marquee with etched movie now showing or a cut out marquee designed to hold a paper now showing sign, this building was built with solid marquee) detailing is so good with this kit that a depiction of can lights above the doors is included that look great lit

With a few exceptions the kits go together quite easily, but I found the large Victorian “Empire” House to have shallow scoring lines for bending in this case further scoring was required. Overall the Empire house was the most difficult of the group to make.

606- Pitman’s Deli (note: excellent detailing with printed store windows and beautiful awning, plus recessed door)

I found some kits came with acetate for the windows while others did not, and a couple had just enough for street side windows with very nice printed signage.

901- City Fire Station (note: I tried building this kit years ago with the recommended Super Glue, it was a disaster and tried these kits again until this Fall. Solder is the way to go for me!)

One obvious advantage with these kits is lighting, they will not leak light as the metal is opaque, but you must fashion windows masks or partition walls for realistic effects.

801- Townhouse #2 (note: under construction the model is assembled but prepping it for painting will include sanding solder joint smooth and bending to make the building sit flush, followed by a good cleaning with diluted Dawn, warm water and a soft toothbrush, green residue on building is flux which washes off easily with warm water and original blue Dawn)

Prepping the kits for assembly takes time, any rough edges must be sanded or filed. And after assembly the buildings need thorough cleaning to remove solder flux or other debris. Super Glue or soldering are the choices for assembly, but I prefer soldering due to the speed and control of this method. Soldering is easy if you use flux in addition to the solder with flux. I solder at 750 degrees and place water soluble flux at the area to be soldered with a toothpick. Note: solder melts and follows the source of heat, try to avoid applying solder directly to the soldering iron tip.

100- City Scoop (note: this is the only kit that requires Super Gluing, it is made of stainless steel and solder will not adhere) this building features great detailing including ice cream machines and work table on the interior, plus picnic tables, air conditioning unit and trash cans on the exterior. I had fun with this kit and painted a whimsical ice cream cone. I also left the interior natural stainless steel, but I painted the ice cream machines with silver solvent based paint and painted the outer edge of the ice cream cone with metallic copper solvent based paint just to catch a sparkle there. (note: if you discover a build-up of Super Glue after its cured it can be removed easily with a razor blade and wear gloves working with Super Glue!!!!!!!!!!)

Note: preparation of the building will include sanding or filing smooth any solder ridges or residual glue that will otherwise show up under a thin layer of paint.

Window glazing is glued in place after painting with 5 minute epoxy. As stated earlier acetate was missing in some kits I bought or not enough was included, if you build Archistories kits use some of the leftover acetate as they are very generous at Archistories.

5 minute epoxy might be the best option for securing these buildings to the layout if it is portable otherwise they sit flush to the surface and anchoring may not be required.

The small buildings in this line-up require simply cementing window details in place then folding buildings sections together and cementing. The roof requires bending along sides and molding embellishments before attaching to building. Note: fold the front section of roof first before side sections, a separate folded section goes over the front of the roof thereby giving a nice finishing touch thus do not cement the roof until this part goes on! Note: everything is outlined well in the instructions, my notes are simply to highlight important aspects that arose for me.

These buildings look better in person, and even better with a GG1 rolling by capping off the hard work and meticulous attention to detail involved with their construction. And your family will be proud of your good fortune!

No complaints about these kits, they were fun to build and modify as needed!!! And soon to be very collectible!

Siding: essential brass bending tool is “The Bug”

Cranes Cranes Cranes! by Peter Behnke

Awhile back I featured a MOW vehicle for the SBB available as a printed shell through Shapeways, it is the design and handiwork of Peter Behnke who’s designs for numerous interesting Z are available at Shapeways.

Mr. Behnke prior to the printed Shapeway models produced small batches of nickel etched build kits for rail vehicles and industrial machines including cranes here we have four of those cranes:

1. 1944 KRUPP ARDELT Dier 1 

2. TAKRAF RDK 160

3. TAKRAF RDK 280

4. TAKRAF RDK 300

Finely detailed etched kits originally delivered without assembly instructions are now available with limited instructions from Scandinavian Shops or qualitytoytrains on Ebay. Numerous filigree parts and thin metal make for some challenges, but they get easier after the first one or two as does most things. Various levels of expertise will be on display for those who take on these kits including soldering and painting skills, but most importantly prepping and bending parts before assembly.

First: orientation to the parts sheet or as one person has said looking at a puzzle with no idea how it goes together

Second: separate parts from sheet and gently sand any rough edges

Third: gently fold parts following photo guides here or in the instruction sheet provided with current purchases through Scandinavian Shops *each kit will have unique challenges and instructions will become more of a distraction from common sense as anyone may attest that assembles these intricate and delicate kits

note: best tool for bending etched metal parts is “The Bug”, it is part of my essential Z toolbox:

The Bug is available at ZScaleMonster.com: http://www.zscalemonster.com/the_small_shop/

Fourth: soldering or super glue are the choices for assembling, I prefer solder because it is quick and gap filling

Fifth: a cleaning phase follows before painting, I use original Dawn liquid (blue) diluted in warm water and using a soft toothbrush gently go over all surfaces to clean off any debris or flux followed by thorough drying

Six: determine your paint color and either spray or brush water based paints, I do not recommend solvent based model paint for these kits, I have found it easier to apply layers of color with water based model paints and the flat surface appearance takes better to aging and weathering

Seventh: spray a diluted water based lacquer over the model to add durability to the painted surface followed by rigging the lines from hook to winding drum

Note: the kits do not provide some required parts including pulley wheels so some extra effort is required to fashion the essential parts for securing rig lines

Note: weighting the cabin is required for some cranes, test before securing cabin to deck, if it topples over maybe cement a small hex nut inside

Note: cranes can be assembled to allow the cabin to rotate on the deck of the crane, pre-drilled holes are provided, but tiny machine screws are not, I determined the placement of the cabin and soldered in place, I also soldered in place the boom which can also be assembled to move, but I do not recommend it: parts are to flimsy for continuous movement at the joint where the two meet

Note: the crane boom in all the kits is one piece featuring bending seams, I soldered all seams to ensure a solid construction, due to the nature of the parts SuperGlue will not work for this step as a gap filling material is required.

Note: soldering is easy with flux, I use water based flux applied to the area I want to solder with a toothpick, heating the material with a soldering iron makes the solder flow toward the heat and to the area to be joined *solder is not applied directly to soldering iron tip unless the area to be joined is too space restrictive *solder with a flux core is recommended with additional flux applied to the area to be soldered

Siding: the right tools make all the difference as with soldering the very best tool I have found is the Hako FX-951 soldering station, it features interchangeable tips, solder resistant pad, sleep mode with iron craddle, and multi function control box *best tool I bought in 2017!!!

 

 

Archistories: Farmstead “Dorpeder”

The other day I announced on this blog the new releases of Archistories, and there are many! Now the world of Z has some excellent buildings for urban and rural by this manufacturer and others, but modern suburban buildings are not covered as yet in laser cut. The Prussian style of architecture is a primary concern for Archistories with many very interesting building types represented with some equipped with motors that turn water wheels and windmills. All Archistories buildings making lighting a joy with predrilled holes in the base and partition walls, but the material nature of laser cut is opaque and won’t glow as does plastic when it is lit.

This farmhouse represents framework construction of the Westphalia region of Germany. Brick is used to fill in between the timbers sometimes the bricks are white washed with the prototype or simply stuccoed, they come in many variations and framework designs in Germany are rather unique seemingly organic constructions with personalities of their own. The wild variety of timber placement in this type of construction sometimes appears planned following some measure of symmetry and other times asymmetrical owing to unique and non duplicated forms. Framework construction with exposed timbers is seen alone and other times combined with sheathing along the roof trusses, brick and stone also make appearances not exclusive to foundation walls. The durable construction technique is also facilitated with strong foundations and steep pitched roofs of slate, terracotta or thatch.

The build of this kit is fun and enjoyable, the finished result is the best thus far in Z for a farmhouse. Some aging maybe desired depending on the era being modeled. The prototype for this example I would guess is mid 19th century to early 20th century when steam ruled and before German reclassification.

ZScaleMonster.com and ZScaleHobo.com are the dealers for Archistories in the United States, both are excellent and reliable sources for this and many more Z scale products.

Looking at Old Photographs for Modeling Ideas Part 5: Farmsteads

Tilled earth, tractors, cows, horses, wagons, people, crops and fruit trees are just a few of the many items a modeler can include with the rural landscape. But missing no more are really good barns and farmhouses in laser cut kits by Faller and Archistories. The recent release of two versions of a farmhouse and barn come from Archistories and include framework construction as does the earlier release by Faller. But Marklin too released a barn (slaughterhouse) with suggested stucco construction. So thus far there are many farm buildings with Archistories receiving the big award for Best in Show!

Archistories “Kallental” (ARC-405171) and “Dorpeder” (ARC-406171)

Faller Bauernhaus (282785)

Marklin 89791 (slaughterhouse including accessories not pictured)

Photo 1: Hartum (village near Hille, Germany)

Photo 2: Hille. Uphoff (note steam tractor)

Photo 3: Horstmeyer. Hille

Photo 4: Hille. Meyers (seed company? note: large barrels, crates and merchants)

Photo 5: Hille. Burmester (note: white wash chipping off stucco suggesting age)

Photo 6: Hille. Wilhelmy (note: farmhouse with stucco and barn with brick in fill framework construction)

Photo 7: Hille. Horstmeyer (note: muddied path with puddle)

Photo 8: Hille. Bormeyer (note: barn with whitewashed brick in fill and fruit trees planted alongside barn)

Siding: MBZ building kits are available from Reynauld’s in IL, they feature numerous rural buildings and farmsteads but purchasing can be delayed for many months due to small production never the less they maybe of interest to certain themed layouts.

Good luck and have fun!

 

Looking at Old Photographs for Modeling Ideas Part 4: Rural Houses

Three lovely photographs of homes in the country include scenes with lush vegetation, walking paths, young and old trees. How to model such a dynamic landscape will require keen observing and patience. Plus the right materials and tools.

The Frye House by Archistories

is a good building to start with, add various colors and lengths of Noch Static Grass, trees and hedges but don’t forget to shape the topography. Unless you live in Iowa  rarely is the land flat. Lighting a scene to replicate noon day sun is yet to be discovered when i have a solution I will surely post it. With the right light shadows will be soft and colors will be bright. Tissue paper could solve window treatments in the Frye House which features partition walls as a standard feature thereby allowing selective interior lighting. Walking paths, cemetery and fences are part and parcel of a well lived country side. Today it is possible to model all aspects of these three photographs but first comes planning and careful execution. One such tool that is expensive but worth owning is the Noch Staticmaster, it charges static grass thereby making it stand on end realistically. I got mine from ZScaleHobo.com. A Z scale steam engine taking a journey through such landscapes is the layout experience everyone will enjoy.

Photo1: Cantorhaus. Hille (choir leaders home next to cemetery and Christian marker)

Photo 2: Hille. Sasse

Photo 3: Hille. Bexhof

Looking at Old Photographs for Modeling Ideas Part 3: Railway Scenes

What is placed near a railway crossing and station requires planning and expertise. The two photos I am including here are a station and a grade crossing. Hedges and trees line the platforms with numerous kiosks located near the glass roofed portico. Old fashion iron lanterns once offered by Marklin can be seen in the railyard. The grade crossing with arms raised include several people giving a strong impression of scale, grade crossing arms are comprised of tapered poles heavily weighted on end.

Photo 1: Deynhausen. Salzsaline

Photo 2: Minden, Bahnhof

1848 Minden Bahnhof today

Siding: figures by Preiser add interesting scale features and points of interest, consider placing figures near view of trains as MOW (maintenance of way workers), passengers waiting for a train, or simply walking figures along the tracks or frolicking on a day off.

Interesting note: Minden Bahnhof is located just blocks from Archistories headquarters in Hannover, Germany.

Looking at Old Photographs for Modeling Ideas Part 2: Roads

One of the great challenges for me is modeling realistic roads in Z scale. Before asphalt and cement roads were dirt, gravel, cobblestone pavers or brick. The likely road surface around 1900 in the country was dirt which varied greatly in color, width and smoothness.

The attached photographs give a glimpse of what a country road in a farming community would have looked like including cattle and horse dropping and the texture of wagon wheels in mud plus the occasional appearance of leaves blown against a wall.

Photo 1: Hille. Strasse

Photo 2: Hille. Strasse

Photo 3: Strasse. Apotheke (pharmacy presumably to the left)

Siding: Noch offers numerous choices for roadway construction including, gravel, cobblestone, and asphalt. Check out ZScaleHobo.com for these and other offerings from Noch.