Category Archives: Accessories for Z

Marklin 89941 Transfer Table: brief notes on history and repair

First introduced to the mini-club line-up in 1977 the 8994 transfer table would remain unchanged in design until 2002 when it was upgraded with a 5 pole motor and the item number was extended by a ‘1’. From 2003 until 2012 the 89941 transfer table was available with a few packaging changes including white versus blue transformer and controller plus a five pole motor. Manufactured throughout its long history in Italy the transfer table is a very well designed and precision accessory for mini-club, it could be used on a layout for modeling steam and diesel, but it could also be accessorized with catenary for electric locos.

I have seen many early and late transfer tables and all were in excellent working condition owing to the excellent design and manufacturing.

The one and only issue with the transfer table 89941 that is easily overcome has to do with delivery specs, three times 89941 was delivered to a local dealer from Walthers and each was afflicted with the same issue: motor housing top plate separation and subsequently gearing detached along with operators’ cabin. No fear, I was able to easily put each back together again. Probably poor packing and shipping from Walthers to Pennsylvania shook things up a bit, but the problem was easily mitigated, and I wanted to share brief notes on the motor housing for new and old transfer table fixes, repairs and restorations.

The motor housing on the transfer table is easily accessed by slipping off the operators’ cabin and then gently working off the top plate of the motor housing which is held in place by clips. Inside the motor housing three sets of gears and the motor. If you need to remove hardened oil simply remove the vertical gear and top gearing to connects with motor and soak in original (blue) Windex, leave motor and second gear in place and with careful use of toothpick, tweezers and very small cleaning cloth remove dirt and hardened oil from the inside of motor housing. Don’t obsess here, normal loco dirt and debris such hair do not afflict this part, careful not to add lint to the housing by cleaning.

To reassemble the motor housing locate mounting hole for vertical gear in base of motor housing (see shiny brass part with hole in base), worm drive end of gear sits in this hole. Note: worm gears align with regular gears only, they do not function together. Large gear is correctly installed on top engaged with worm gear (bushing on each end of top gear that engages with motor allow it to move freely, double check this gear is properly installed before proceeding). Before attaching top plate locate hole with brass bushing, this hole will align with top of vertical gear. Lastly slide on top plate and test.

Underside of top plate with brass bushing, top of vertical gear sits within the bushing.

Everything fits correctly when the motor housing has no gaps.

Note: bridge only moves with power applied when gearing is properly installed, it will not move freely unless the vertical gear is removed from the motor housing.

Don’t be afraid to buy the transfer table used, I have never seen one that can’t be restored with a simple cleaning or realignment of the bridge and those include some late 1970’s examples.

Good luck and happy railroading. Stay tuned for the next post, an exciting loco shed to go with the transfer table has just been released!

Archistories ARC-104171:

Siding: realistic modeling might include weathering of the bridge and attaching corrugated steel in the form of laser cut cardstock to the roof of the operators’ cabin.

Micro-Structures and American Prototype Architecture for Z

Miller Engineering released a line of buildings kits years ago called Micro-Structures designed along the lines of typical architecture found in many small American towns. If you visit Main Street in many USA towns the original buildings haven’t changed much since they were built in the late 19th century, the towns themselves have changed dramatically and some buildings have gone through facelifts and demolition here and there, but for the most part the old buildings are intact thus modeling most any era of American railroading is possible with these building kits.

V101- Victorian House: “Empire” (note: additional scoring is required with this kit)

V606- Victorian House: “The Victoria”

The concentration of the line was on Main Street, but it also included a few Victorian houses that rounded out the line nicely. Note: I am using the past tense because unfortunately the line was discontinued with only a few new kits available here and there from dealer old stock. Ebay is a good source as is ZScaleHobo.com. I found a local dealer who had a few left over kits which were very popular in their day and should be today; they are well designed in historical scale and detailing plus well made out of heavy gauge etched brass.

303- K.C.’s Hardware Store (note: features printed windows with store logo) lime sometimes appears over time in mortar joints and bricks, I applied diluted white paint followed by wiping off to give this effect

404- The Triangle Hotel & Bar (note: features printed window masking for the street level windows as well as clear acetate for the other windows) building as it appears right after painting but before window glazing. Typical building type for a mid size town, but this design first appeared in NYC, that building is called not surprisingly the “Flat Iron Building”

505- Crestline Theater (note: two options for marquee include a solid marquee with etched movie now showing or a cut out marquee designed to hold a paper now showing sign, this building was built with solid marquee) detailing is so good with this kit that a depiction of can lights above the doors is included that look great lit

With a few exceptions the kits go together quite easily, but I found the large Victorian “Empire” House to have shallow scoring lines for bending in this case further scoring was required. Overall the Empire house was the most difficult of the group to make.

606- Pitman’s Deli (note: excellent detailing with printed store windows and beautiful awning, plus recessed door)

I found some kits came with acetate for the windows while others did not, and a couple had just enough for street side windows with very nice printed signage.

901- City Fire Station (note: I tried building this kit years ago with the recommended Super Glue, it was a disaster and tried these kits again until this Fall. Solder is the way to go for me!)

One obvious advantage with these kits is lighting, they will not leak light as the metal is opaque, but you must fashion windows masks or partition walls for realistic effects.

801- Townhouse #2 (note: under construction the model is assembled but prepping it for painting will include sanding solder joint smooth and bending to make the building sit flush, followed by a good cleaning with diluted Dawn, warm water and a soft toothbrush, green residue on building is flux which washes off easily with warm water and original blue Dawn)

Prepping the kits for assembly takes time, any rough edges must be sanded or filed. And after assembly the buildings need thorough cleaning to remove solder flux or other debris. Super Glue or soldering are the choices for assembly, but I prefer soldering due to the speed and control of this method. Soldering is easy if you use flux in addition to the solder with flux. I solder at 750 degrees and place water soluble flux at the area to be soldered with a toothpick. Note: solder melts and follows the source of heat, try to avoid applying solder directly to the soldering iron tip.

100- City Scoop (note: this is the only kit that requires Super Gluing, it is made of stainless steel and solder will not adhere) this building features great detailing including ice cream machines and work table on the interior, plus picnic tables, air conditioning unit and trash cans on the exterior. I had fun with this kit and painted a whimsical ice cream cone. I also left the interior natural stainless steel, but I painted the ice cream machines with silver solvent based paint and painted the outer edge of the ice cream cone with metallic copper solvent based paint just to catch a sparkle there. (note: if you discover a build-up of Super Glue after its cured it can be removed easily with a razor blade and wear gloves working with Super Glue!!!!!!!!!!)

Note: preparation of the building will include sanding or filing smooth any solder ridges or residual glue that will otherwise show up under a thin layer of paint.

Window glazing is glued in place after painting with 5 minute epoxy. As stated earlier acetate was missing in some kits I bought or not enough was included, if you build Archistories kits use some of the leftover acetate as they are very generous at Archistories.

5 minute epoxy might be the best option for securing these buildings to the layout if it is portable otherwise they sit flush to the surface and anchoring may not be required.

The small buildings in this line-up require simply cementing window details in place then folding buildings sections together and cementing. The roof requires bending along sides and molding embellishments before attaching to building. Note: fold the front section of roof first before side sections, a separate folded section goes over the front of the roof thereby giving a nice finishing touch thus do not cement the roof until this part goes on! Note: everything is outlined well in the instructions, my notes are simply to highlight important aspects that arose for me.

These buildings look better in person, and even better with a GG1 rolling by capping off the hard work and meticulous attention to detail involved with their construction. And your family will be proud of your good fortune!

No complaints about these kits, they were fun to build and modify as needed!!! And soon to be very collectible!

Siding: essential brass bending tool is “The Bug”

The 1935 NIEMAG GLEISBAUKRAN is monumental!

Crane, maintenance of way railcar, or a crazy thing with lots of hooks? All of the above, but what stands out is its sheer size and without a description who knows what it is?!?!

The railcar with the big boom installed over a million window cabin is for track construction, assembled track sections could be offloaded from a flat car, traverse through the car above the cabin and placed on other side for installation.

Winding drum and machines are modeled inside the cabin. I chose to paint the machine in dark brown with weathering along the lower part of cabin as a disused railway vehicle on a siding.

Constructing the model was relatively easy compared with others by Behnke although I found the cabin to be a tight and difficult fit on the chassis. The mistakes I made with this kit was installing the cabin higher on the frame than it should be, but I found the fitting too difficult, it did not readily slide into place. The second mistake was installing the hooks too low in the boom, they should have been attached higher inside the boom frame to realistically allow track to slide through channel above cabin. One day I will receive buffers for this and maybe then correct the hooks, but in the meantime it is a pretty cool contraption!

 

Nagel & Kamp railway crane by Peter Behnke

Another interesting railway vehicle is this early railway crane by Nagel & Kamp released in Z by Behnke.

As with other Behnke kits wheel sets and buffers have to be purchased separately, they are available from FR and Marklin.

An interesting and early crane that will add interest to a siding or alongside a railway building.

Assembly was easier than other Behnke kits but still challenging as the parts are small and bendable joints easily break. A little weight was applied to the inside of cabin to prevent it from tipping over. Window glazing can be installed although I chose not to.

Crane boom has a fixed pitch and a winding drum is not depicted , I used a fine brown thread for the rigging line affixed to a beam that I had to supply.

 

 

Cranes Cranes Cranes! by Peter Behnke

Awhile back I featured a MOW vehicle for the SBB available as a printed shell through Shapeways, it is the design and handiwork of Peter Behnke who’s designs for numerous interesting Z are available at Shapeways.

Mr. Behnke prior to the printed Shapeway models produced small batches of nickel etched build kits for rail vehicles and industrial machines including cranes here we have four of those cranes:

1. 1944 KRUPP ARDELT Dier 1 

2. TAKRAF RDK 160

3. TAKRAF RDK 280

4. TAKRAF RDK 300

Finely detailed etched kits originally delivered without assembly instructions are now available with limited instructions from Scandinavian Shops or qualitytoytrains on Ebay. Numerous filigree parts and thin metal make for some challenges, but they get easier after the first one or two as does most things. Various levels of expertise will be on display for those who take on these kits including soldering and painting skills, but most importantly prepping and bending parts before assembly.

First: orientation to the parts sheet or as one person has said looking at a puzzle with no idea how it goes together

Second: separate parts from sheet and gently sand any rough edges

Third: gently fold parts following photo guides here or in the instruction sheet provided with current purchases through Scandinavian Shops *each kit will have unique challenges and instructions will become more of a distraction from common sense as anyone may attest that assembles these intricate and delicate kits

note: best tool for bending etched metal parts is “The Bug”, it is part of my essential Z toolbox:

The Bug is available at ZScaleMonster.com: http://www.zscalemonster.com/the_small_shop/

Fourth: soldering or super glue are the choices for assembling, I prefer solder because it is quick and gap filling

Fifth: a cleaning phase follows before painting, I use original Dawn liquid (blue) diluted in warm water and using a soft toothbrush gently go over all surfaces to clean off any debris or flux followed by thorough drying

Six: determine your paint color and either spray or brush water based paints, I do not recommend solvent based model paint for these kits, I have found it easier to apply layers of color with water based model paints and the flat surface appearance takes better to aging and weathering

Seventh: spray a diluted water based lacquer over the model to add durability to the painted surface followed by rigging the lines from hook to winding drum

Note: the kits do not provide some required parts including pulley wheels so some extra effort is required to fashion the essential parts for securing rig lines

Note: weighting the cabin is required for some cranes, test before securing cabin to deck, if it topples over maybe cement a small hex nut inside

Note: cranes can be assembled to allow the cabin to rotate on the deck of the crane, pre-drilled holes are provided, but tiny machine screws are not, I determined the placement of the cabin and soldered in place, I also soldered in place the boom which can also be assembled to move, but I do not recommend it: parts are to flimsy for continuous movement at the joint where the two meet

Note: the crane boom in all the kits is one piece featuring bending seams, I soldered all seams to ensure a solid construction, due to the nature of the parts SuperGlue will not work for this step as a gap filling material is required.

Note: soldering is easy with flux, I use water based flux applied to the area I want to solder with a toothpick, heating the material with a soldering iron makes the solder flow toward the heat and to the area to be joined *solder is not applied directly to soldering iron tip unless the area to be joined is too space restrictive *solder with a flux core is recommended with additional flux applied to the area to be soldered

Siding: the right tools make all the difference as with soldering the very best tool I have found is the Hako FX-951 soldering station, it features interchangeable tips, solder resistant pad, sleep mode with iron craddle, and multi function control box *best tool I bought in 2017!!!

 

 

Railex versus Z-Modellbau: Kof II showdown

Until Z-Modellbau took the challenge to manufacturer a Z Kof II with a Motor (!!!!) our choice was limited to mechanical rolling non-motorized Kof’s by Schmidt and Railex.

The Railex example here is cast brass (red paint scheme lettered for DB with open cab and black running boards) with fine detailing inside the cab, it was a very good example of a Kof II that Railex produced along with variations of this type.

Headlamps are non-working in both locomotives but Z-Modellbau rendered them white in perfect circles versus Railex which are hand-painted silver.

What to do with a non-working model train: use it of course! Before brushless motors manufacturers of Z gauge had certain limitations placed on their ambitions. Z gauge is already small in size so therefore modeling the smallest prototypes yield problem after problem including where to put a motor and gears. The solution with their larger steam locos and tenders was locating the drive mechanism within a passenger or freight car hence they were called “ghost cars” because they became hidden locomotives, but they allowed the locomotive to pull cars so to speak figuratively not literally. I collect Railex, they are beautiful and fun to behold. As for ghost cars I have never owned one, I understand they can be temperamental and many I see for sale are offered “not working”. Ghost cars can be built by industrious engineers with a clever creative side which describes most of us Z-scalers, if you choose the to take the challenge the rewards are big and stalled trains from 19th century Germany may come to life on your railway line.

Photo: no couplers on Railex, Z-Modellbau uses Marklin compatible couplers of their own design that unobtrusive in this small loco

Now the time is ripe for ambitious manufacturers to create smaller locos in Z that function, today brushless motors from Switzerland are available in a variety of small sizes so releasing new locos with this motor should be easy? Wrong. From idea to final market ready model is a design and manufacturing “Matterhorn” so to speak. Having the idea is the first step followed by researching the prototype’s blueprints, putting into scale, designing the parts and assembly. Every step is time consuming and difficult with a fair share of creative thinking, ingenuous problem solving and sheer expertise in tooling and production. The latter always flabbergasts me, how can anyone be gifted with such abilities that tiny tiny tiny details appear in such small locos at the same time concealing their build.

With the Railex Kof which is cast with add-on parts in cast brass the model is beautiful with a securing plate screwed to the undercarriage that simply holds the wheel-sets on: simple and beautifully designed. This example does not have couplers thus making it a stand alone model train.

Photo: Railex Koff hauling livestock boxcar both lettered for DB

The Z-Modellbau Kof II for NSB has an enclosed cab with glazed windows and their own unique design for a Marklin compatible coupler. A 10 volt coreless motor runs the show including gearing that allow smooth acceleration and deceleration but without working headlamps. Headlamps are beautifully modeled as if lit. Locomotive is weighted and balanced due to its metal nature throughout so pulling power is very good.

Photo: Railex Kof II is true to prototypical scale giving the boxcars the impression of great size

Small locomotives serve very important functions including shunting and branchline while others not covered here serve MOW (Maintenance of Way) service, they (speeders) are still smaller than the kofs  with one purpose: track inspection.

Siding: seen here are the two livestock boxcars comprising the Marklin 2 car freight set: 86602. For the first time this car type features interior detailing in the form of gates, it also includes laser cut build kit for loading ramp and movable fence sections.

Z-Modellbau builds the legendary ML 2/2 in Z!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Maffei built the ML 2/2 steam locomotive in 1906-1908, Z-Modellbau built it first as a Z scale model. The observation has been made many times equating the appearance of early German steam locos with toy trains, but the ML 2/2 was a hardy locomotive that proved it’s worth.

 

Built for the Bavarian State Railways the ML 2/2 was equal measure to the PtL 2/2 built by Krauss. Service duties included all such description on branchlines, and it could be operated by a single driver due to its semi-automatic gravity fed firebox. 24 locos were produced until it was retired in 1924.

Z-Modellbau has done it again with one of the finest Z scale locos ever available, the fine detailing of this loco has no rivals. And it is very small and true to scale with the prototype’s external cylinders modeled with smooth moving side rods of an ingenious design. This little gem is all metal construction featuring brushless motor and window glazing in the cab.

The ML 2/2’s place in history has been preserved in Z by Z-Modellbau, every inch of this is a masterpiece even though it’s total length is less than inch.

Running performance is superb at slow idle through full throttle.

Marklin’s 82391 (2005) high capacity coal hopper lettered for K.Bay.Sts.B is a perfect choice for this loco as well as Marklin small loco repair shed 89805.

Photo: here the ML 2/2 details are seen with coal bin in cabin roof and Marklin compatible coupler.

The scaling of Z-Modellbau locos creates a dramatic appeal on the layout due to their small size. Juxtaposed next to larger more powerful stream loco the ML 2/2 will stand out next to those towering express locos. Train sheds and buildings will also offer interesting juxtapositions and already there are buildings by Archistories and Marklin that fill in this time-frame for authentic prototypical railway scenes.

Photo: on a siding or near a loco shed the idling ML 2/2 will have great appeal on rural railway lines hauling passenger and/or freight.

New Insights: Faller 282711 “Klingenberg Station”

A couple of years has passed since Faller released the card-stock kit for Klingenberg Station, it is remarkably similar to the plastic kit “Guglingen Station” with exceptions. The exceptions include new use of laser cut card-stock with a combination of laser cut wood parts and plastic.

Laser cut card-stock has evolved at Faller and currently there have been a number of them released over the years of entirely new designs even for urban settings. The neat innovation with Faller is the use of masking, it was originally useful/essential for lighting plastic buildings to avoid glowing of the whole building, but the original masks served double duty and introduced another innovation with window details: drapes and curtains. Card-stock is opaque so no glowing naturally occurs when lit, but Faller continues to include masking simply to add interest to the windows of their kits.

Note: LED’s are recommended to for lighting Faller buildings due to their brightness and dimming controls. LED’s are also cool versus conventional hobby lighting which give off a lot of heat. Lastly LED’s will last far longer than traditional lighting.

This first kit included plastic roof sheathing which I painted to lessen the look of plastic and the wooden parts are a beautiful texture and color hard to simulate in paper. A good design based on the original plastic kit available for many years this transitional kit to finer detailed laser cut cardstock was a very good attempt to keep pace with the growing trend toward professional cardstock construction. Faller continues to combine laser cut wood parts into these kits, and they continue to innovate with new kits each year.

Siding: this building could be a very good contender for modeling a Scandinavian themed layout?

Shapeways: New Directions in Z Modeling

3-D printing is all the rage these days, any manner of thing seems to be offered by this new technology. And now Z items are available through the company Shapeways. I hadn’t even thought about searching for such things but a few months ago I came across the Shapeways website. My Wife and I had a day off in some far off land so I had time to check out the 12 pages of Z gauge offerings by a number of designers, and I found it very enjoyable and ordered one. The item I ordered was a German class 701 catenary maintenance locomotive, it arrived packed in a sturdy box by the time we got home from our trip.

It is interesting to order from Shapeways, items are printed on demand with the disclaimer that the order maybe cancelled if Shapeways feels the item is too delicate to print so presumably not everything is available. The item I ordered was printed, and I am very happy with the finished shell. The plastic is translucent with a slight texture that will take paint well. Because of the translucent material lighting the loco will be disappointing unless a solution is made by masking (later problem to work through).

The locomotive came in two parts including the main shell and service platform. Detailing and design is quite excellent including warning beacon lights and roof top observation window. Shell has the same specs as the standard Marklin railbuses so adding a chassis and motor will be easy. A small hole is included in the roof to accommodate the single arm pantograph. Challenges for completing this project include painting and thus masking for three separate painting phases: safety yellow, gray and silver. Note: I find it easier to paint the dark color first inside and outside shell, finishing the roof as the final paint is what I do. Brushing the silver hardware for windows and black paint for buffers plus any touch-ups before following up with the final matte clear coat. Much easier to airbrush using water based paint diluted to flow through the airbrush used. Attaching the work platform permanently with 5 minute epoxy only, but the cool loco is designed for a pivoting work platform secured with a screw.

The prototype well depicted by the 3-D printed model as can be seen with two paint schemes by Marklin and Trix, and the roof observation hood as seen in the third photo of the prototype:

photo: Trix N scale class 701

photo: Marklin HO class TVT 6219 Esn

photo: prototype class 701

Notes on Shapeways products for Z: many curious items are offered including autos and loads as well as buildings, locos and rolling stock. These are projects that need to be completed and some that are offered will be more successful than others.

Perfect Partners: Archistories, FR, Z-Modellbau

Three manufacturers from Germany are probably the best small manufacturers in Z gauge today, each complementing one another with prototypical accuracy, precision engineering and design plus high quality material build. Each has their niche filling in where Marklin has not including early Prussian building kits, Scandanavian locos and rolling stock plus small locomotive classes untouched by any other manufacturer of Z.

The smallest operating locomotive in Z is represented in the offerings of Z-Modellbau, here is a Kof II painted and lettered for the NSB Railway coupled to FR Freudenreich’s container car for the SJ.

Far smaller in length than a single container car this locomotive features a brushless motor and brass gearing with metal shell.

In another photo a Prussian car-shop is juxtaposed alongside the tiny Kof II locomotive classified Skd211 for the NSB.

Siding: Kof style locomotives are essential for shunting and regional service with simplified operating procedures, a no nonsense locomotive with many useful duties. I plan to operate this one along a pier for shunting harbor freight.

quality-toys-trains on Ebay is the only USA dealer for FR and Z-Modellbau, Andreas is a trusted seller of rare Z!!!